Travelespresso

My Passion

2011-07-04T03:43:00.000-07:00

Aside from travelling, netball is my other big passion. When I'm able to combine two of my passions, you can probably imagine how excited I am to be going to the World Netball Cup which is on in Singapore in now.

The New Zealand Silver Ferns are ranked number one in the world with our arch rivals Australia number two. Whenever these two teams play one another it's an exciting but tight encounter. Of course, its not a foregone conclusion that they will both be in the finals as the teams from England and Jamaica could be strong enough to make it all the way through the draw.

I've had tickets to the last three days of play for many months now and I'll be in Singapore in a day or two.

Singapore is a great city with lots to do and quirky architecture. When I was there for a few days a month or so ago, I was lucky enough to see a show - The Lion King. It was held in the amazing Marina Bay Sands which is a complex that wouldn't look out of place in Las Vegas! What a treat it was to see this show again, the first time being in Sydney.

This time, my visit will be primarily for that wonderful sport of Netball with some shopping and dining out when the game schedule permits me to leave the stadium.

Oh, I am a lucky traveller.

I'm loving ........ all the travel I've been able to do from my base here in Vietnam. Laos for a second time, Singapore, The Mekong Delta and soon Kuala Lumpur and Bali.

I'm missing....... home! I've been away too long.

I'm reading....... Destination Saigon by Walter Mason. I've finished it but this man is a wonderful writer who writes perceptive comments about life in Vietnam.

A New Type of Beach Experience! Travel Vietnam

2010-07-08T18:24:00.000-07:00

The beach looked inviting; very inviting and so we carefully selected our place in the shade.

White sand stretched out before us and we lay down to relax on the quiet beach. Although Hai Phong is a really pretty city and a nice place to be, it felt so good to be away from the pollution, noise and daily activity in Hai Phong.

The sea looked inviting and clean.

Swimming here was more like taking a tepid bath but nonetheless refreshing.

There were only two other people swimming at the time. The lounge chairs languished unused on the white sandy stretch of beach.

Tall limestone cliffs behind us created a unique snug feel to this beach with the uninspiring name of Number Two Beach.

We could see many islands off the coast of Cat Ba Island, on the perimeter of Halong Bay. It's a really idyllic spot.

Then, as if a switch had been turned on people arrived. First they came in twos, threes and fours but then they came in groups of twenty.

They came with equipment too. They came with games to play and staked out huge areas of the beach right beside our spot. They had baskets of supplies - balloons, ribbons (to mark out the area claimed), rope (for the tug o war) and this is truly shocking - megaphones! I saw at least three bright yellow megaphones!

The newcomers turned this peaceful haven into a fair ground! I was so shocked I didn't even get a photograph of the megaphones or the person in charge of it who shouted into it non-stop for about one hour before we escaped. It was like being at a fairground except noisier.

Suddenly anyone swimming (my friend braved it but I didn't) had to fight for elbow room in the sea. The sole man guarding the beach with a flag and a whistle walked up and down like a crazy man trying to marshal the swimmers into a narrow strip of the beach inside the marker buoys.

It's hard to believe the marked changes on the beaches depending upon the time of day you go there.

Here is Cat Ba Number 1 Beach before the crowds and after the crowds came rollicking in. It was taken at about 5p.m. Vietnam time. You get to Number 1 Beach before Number 2 beach.

This time last year....

2010-07-04T22:20:00.001-07:00

It's amazing to think that this time last year I was in Mexico City after spending a month in Cuba.

This life on the road just seems to fly by and I'm often amazed at where this journey has, or is, taking me. As I indulge in a very short reflection.

I really enjoyed my time in Cuba. Its a country full of contrasts and I am constantly amazed at how happy they appear despite a lot of hardship in many instances. It really is worth going there before it changes.

Since this time last year, I've lived in Australia, Malaysia and now Vietnam. Phew! The thought of packing up and getting to a place, sorting out phones, where to buy supplies in multiple countries even exhausts me. If I let myself think of it!

I've also spent time in New Zealand (a couple of visits) and Singapore which I thoroughly enjoyed. I always enjoy getting back to New Zealand and the time there always seems so very short.

I'm enjoying Vietnam again even though its for work, I'm getting out and about again mixing with locals and eating in authentic cafes and restaurants.

Best coffee........Highland Coffee. It's locally grown and very very good.

I'm missing.....marmite. I had a goodie parcel posted from New Zealand over six weeks ago with a supply of marmite in it but unfortunately its gone missing!

I'm reading.......a very nice novel. The Horse Dancer by Jojo Moyes. It's the second novel I've read by her and this one is equally as good as the first which was The Ship of Brides.

I'm loving......being amongst all of things (well most anyway) foreign and just being out there doing it!

Friendly Hai Phong

2010-06-25T16:58:00.000-07:00

Going to a city to live for a few months is always an interesting exercise as you ponder questions such as what will the food be like? Before you arrive you have no real idea of what to expect and so we all stocked up on a few basics in Hanoi! After all, I reasoned to myself as I carried overloaded supermarket bags back to my Hanoi Hotel, "I'm not sure if I'll be able to get muesli there"!

However, we (I'd roped the other two teachers into my supermarket frenzy) had no need to worry at all because Hai Phong has several excellent supermarkets selling local

goods. There is also a limited supply of western food so all is well!

Most of the teachers here stay at the one hotel - even those who are on one year contracts. It's a great life as I go to work and when I come back (home?), my bed has been made and I have fresh towels hanging on the bathroom rail. What more could a gal ask for?

The longer standing teachers have also given us many tips of where to eat which has been really great and I now have a few "favs". One restaurant is on the 12th floor of a bank building. You would never know its there as there is no sign outside and even when you get into the lift there is nothing to indicate which floor. It has a marvellous view of Hai Phong and excellent food - Western and Vietnamese.

Here are a few photos taken from my hotel balcony. It's an ever changing and most interesting view. I spend hours watching the street scene unfold before me. Notice my wonderful world map coffee mug (bought in Singapore) sitting on the rail.

I've also posted a couple of articles on

HubPages. This first one is on Vietnamese food.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Vietnam-Travel-Vietnamese-Food-Ideas-for-Travelers

The second one is a favourite of mine - The Old Quarter in Hanoi where the 1000 year old streets still have some of the ancient trades doing business there. Its a really fascinating wander through this area. I hope you enjoy it.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Old-Quarter-Hanoi

Frenetic Hanoi

2010-05-26T17:52:00.000-07:00

Here's the latest wanderings from Hanoi. I'd quite forgotten just how frenetic the traffic is here in Hanoi. Going out onto the street, one is assailed by the "sounds" of this city - horns honking, motor scooters revving and construction!

The city seems to be in a rebuilding phase with workers crawling over building sites all over the city. Even the Old Quarter has been spruced up since my last visit here. I'll write about the Old Quarter in a separate article.

The scooters continue to amaze me. There are so many and they are often overloaded with people, and goods being delivered. Heck, I even saw a massive flat screen television being transported on the back of a scooter and it wasn't tied on. How they manage to weave through the congested traffic to safely deliver it is completely beyond me.

I'm loving......the vibrant city.

I'm missing....morning breakfast television. Oh and of course good coffee. It was excellent in Singapore but here I haven't found a really good one yet.

I'm reading....nothing at the moment. I'm too busy sightseeing!

It's Vietnam Time!

2010-05-19T05:22:00.000-07:00

My last message said that I was on the move again and heading for Malaysia. Yet just two months after that - I am on the move yet again!

I had planned a one year stay in Malaysia but that wasn't to be. As I write this, I am in Singapore but I leave here for Vietnam tomorrow.

The experience in Malaysia was good but not what was promised so that's why I'm on the road again.

I have a three month contract to teach in Haiphong which is 100kms north of Hanoi. I haven't been to this city before but its on the doorstep of amazing Halong Bay which I visited last time I was in Vietnam. During the next month I'll try to secure a one year contract somewhere.

Kuala Lumpur was an interesting mix. In the area where I stayed, the locals used the street as one big rubbish tip. It was disgusting. I used to walk on the road because the footpath was littered with dropped rubbish or plastic bags of rubbish piled up. The photo of the rubbish is taken just outside of the condo. It didn't look any different any day of the week.

I stayed in a lovely condo with a really nice pool (photo) and I swam every day, sometimes twice. It was lovely to cool off in the evening before I went to bed.

The shopping malls were amazing and there are many of them. The Suria Mall, just below the Petronas Towers is glitzy and nice for browsing and shopping.

I'm missing...........coffee. I just couldn't find any good coffee aside from Starbucks and Gloria Jeans and you all know my snobbish reaction to these chains. However, I frequented them when I could!

I'm loving...........being in Singapore at the moment. This is one cool city!

I'm reading.........A Fine Balance by Rohinton Mistry. Actually I read it a few years ago. I love the detail and descriptive narrative. A fine work - excuse the pun.

I've enjoyed.......the swimming pool at my condo. I also enjoyed the Wednesday night markets. Its reputed to be the longest market in Malaysia. Great food and bargains to be had - but you take your chances!

Next time.....I'll write from Vietnam

On the Road Again

2010-03-20T20:21:00.000-07:00

On the Road Again

I’m "on the road again"! This time a new career and a new country beckon this kiwi traveller.

I left Sydney in early February. My red suitcase had expanded quite a lot during my 18 months there and so it was time to cull my possessions. I always find culling quite difficult as I only buy the things I like but airline allowances are pitifully small when one wants to pack a yellow leather couch! However, this is one of those things I have to live with while I’m choosing to live this kind of transient lifestyle.

Before leaving Sydney I trained in the CELTA method of teaching English as a second language. This qualification will allow me to work in many countries otherwise unaccessible to me. It was hard, we had to work long hours and although very stressful the course was generally excellent and I learnt a lot. During the course we used the information our trainers crammed into our exhausted brains in the morning and then had to put it into practice in front of 20 willing students in the afternoon!

Before I'd completed the month long course, I had interviews with people from a few countries and opted for a contract with a University in Malaysia. I leave for Malaysia at the end of March and begin work a week later teaching adults which is my preference.

In the meantime, I’ve been enjoying relaxation in NZ and the wonderfully long hot summer which has been truly glorious. The photos of Taupo were taken last winter.

It’s incredibly exciting to be on the road again, living and working in a new country. I will keep you posted from Kuala Lumpur. Do drop me a line.

I'm loving......being back in New Zealand amongst family and friends. I'm also loving this fantastic weather.

I'm reading........I've just finished a Rohinton Mistry book called Family Matters. It's a really great yarn about daily life of an Indian family as they deal with illness, old age, family rifts and growing children. It is beautifully crafted and I recommend it.

I'm looking forward to........a new adventure - new country and new career.

I'm surprised.......by how dry the country is. As I've driven around the North Island of NZ I've been surprised by how brown the countryside is. We badly need rain.

Anniversaries

2009-11-07T21:03:00.000-08:00

Hello All

I know that I've been in Sydney for awhile when the anniversaries come around again.

I have just been to see the Sculpture By the Sea exhibition along the walkway from Bondi Beach to Bronte. Once again it is stunning and quite different to the sculptures of last year. I love the way the artists are able to display their art by the sea in such a unique environment.

I have written an article on the hubpages so if you would like to see some more great photos and information go here: http://hubpages.com/_2ray4pba8aldg/hub/art-by-the-sea.

Of course Christmas is not that far away and all the decorations are up in the shops and malls. It's particularly exciting to see the massive tree in the Queen Victoria Building in the city centre.

I've been reading.....Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts. It's a massive book so great for a holiday read. Although it sags badly in the middle, it is well worth the effort. Thanks to my friends who recommended it to me.

I've been writing......a lot! I've been writing on Hubpages. Check me out there. Its really easy to leave comments if you are off a mind too http://hubpages.com/profile/travelespresso.

I've been loving.....recent visits from several friends. Over about a six week period, I've had visits from about eight friends! I feel blessed to be able to catch up with them.

I'm looking forward to.......a visit to Brisbane in a few days time to catch up with my sailing friends and then a visit back to NZ for Christmas.

November 09 Update

2009-10-27T01:48:00.000-07:00

Hello all
A quick update on what's happening. I am still living in Sydney. I've been doing some sightseeing and lots of writing which I'm publishing on http://hubpages.com/profile/travelespresso.

You can see some of the articles I've published by clicking on the links below:

Best Sydney Beaches http://hubpages.com/_2ray4pba8aldg/hub/best-sydney-beaches

Intriguing Boat trips in Ninh Binh: http://hubpages.com/_2ray4pba8aldg/hub/Surprising-Ninh-Binh-Vietnam-and-Three-Intriguing-Boat-Trips

Best Sydney Markets http://hubpages.com/hub/Sydneys-Best-Flea-Markets

Learning to Weave with the locals in Vientiane: http://hubpages.com/_2ray4pba8aldg/hub/Weaving-Learning-to-Weave-in-Laos

Shopping at 5 Top Asian Markets: http://hubpages.com/_2ray4pba8aldg/hub/Gift-Shopping-at-5-Top-Markets-in-Asia

And more......

Take a look and if you like what you see (or not), leave me a comment.

Kiama - where the sea makes a noise

2009-09-19T22:59:00.000-07:00

Kiama - where the sea makes a noise

Since arriving to live in Sydney, one year ago last month, I've wanted to visit Kiama. The name Kiama means "where the sea makes a noise".

With another friend in town time to explore and a gorgeous sunny 30 degree day promised we set off, in the excited fashion of kids on an day excursion.

The train from Central Station heads south through Sydney suburbs, chugs slowly uphill through quiet native bush and wends its way past idyllic looking seaside communities. Two hours later we reach the pretty harbour town of Kiama hugging a volcanic coastline; its lighthouse gleaming on the hilltop.

Having left early, we were rather hungry so our first stop was to find a cafe with lovely views over the road to the harbour. Lads in this town love their vintage cars and bikes so we were treated to a steady stream of carefully restored vehicles cruising by while we munched on breakfast.

One of the key attractions here are the two blow holes where water is pushed into an underground cave through an opening in the black rocks high up into the sky. There are two blow hole vents; one small and one large and the spurt of water reminds me of the Rotorua geysers.

Kiama also has a couple of those iconic Australian swimming pools beside the open sea which are filled with sea water. I continue to be captivated by them and spent some time trying to photograph them.

It's also famous for its pelican and has made a statue of one although this photo was not taken there.

The day delivered the promised temperature but the sea breeze kept its cooling vigil so it was a very pleasant day for tourists.

Sadly, we didn't see the blow holes playing so I will have to return another time to ensure its not a myth. I will also time my next visit so I can see one of the regular markets.

A Close Game

2009-09-08T21:01:00.000-07:00

A Close Game:

If the Silver Ferns were daunted by walking into the Sydney Acer Arena it didn't show in their performance.

The NZ netballers walked out into the darkened stadium to see thousands of flashing "diamond" necklaces. I thought this was sheer marketing genius to link the Australian Diamond Netball Team and their supporters to these flashing lights. the necklaces flashed brilliantly in the dark and the spectacle must have boosted the Australian team. As I cheered on "my team" my necklace remained snug in my handbag.

The new look uniform of the Silver Ferns with sparkling silver strips looked stunning.

Captain, Casey Williams led and played outstandingly well the whole game, limiting the Australian shooter Catherine Cox's success rate. She was replaced at half time.

It was great to again be at a live netball match, even though I was surrounded by cheering supporters in green and gold. However, a few minutes after the whistle blew to start the game, the crowd was almost silenced as we reaced to a 5:0 lead. The crowd booed every time the referee called against the Australian team. I confess I really don't like this trend.

Approximately 11,000 watched NZ win 53:50 and I'm a very happy supporter. I'm also glad the two Cambridge ladies dressed in Waikato colours who flew over especially to see the game got to see "our team" win.

Photos: outside the Acer Arena - Diamond flags flying

Casey Williams in the old team uniform

Questions People Most Ask

2009-08-29T17:53:00.000-07:00

Questions people most ask me:

Is it safe to travel to those countries? - meaning Cambodia, Laos, and Cuba etc - I found them safer than I thought. But I try not to take undue risks. Sometimes I’ve been caught out though, like my experience on Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia and written about here. But that experience is, by far, in the minority.

Do you get lonely? Rarely. But, I hasten to add, I do like my own company. If I do feel like conversation, there’s always somebody close by for a chat. Other travelers love to chat and so too do the locals (language permitting). Sometimes the encounters with the locals are very special as in Cambodia (see the hatmaker article), and see the photo below where people in Ninh Binh (Vietnam) lined up for me to take photos of their children. And then there’s skype!

What place do you like the most? Phew! That’s almost impossible for me to answer – I could break it up into categories.

i. The best shopping – Mexico City or the markets in Vientiane;
ii. Memorable ruins – Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples are a stand-out, particularly the isolated temples;
iii. Most memorable sunset – supping champagne on the after deck of friends yacht whilst anchored off a gorgeous deserted island in New Caledonia;
iv. Best meal – a Vietnamese hotpot shared with a Singaporean mother and adult daughter in the mountains of Sapa;
v. Best beer – a cold beerlao consumed while watching the sun go down over the Mekong River;
vi. Best coffee, but overall the divine taste of fair trade coffee supped in Laos is excellent;
vii. Best beach – so many.

So many great memories and, one hopes, more to come.

Photos - all Vietnam : Shopping for lanterns in Hoi An

My tailor in Hoi An (just before the accident)

Parents lined their kids up for me to take photos of them in Ninh Binh

Cuba – Top Tips

2009-08-15T23:37:00.000-07:00

Cuba – Top Tips

To vacation in Cuba is like going no-where else because of the time warp the country has been in for the past half century.

I thought the country was beguiling with interesting (and interested) people and I left the country with rich and warm memories.

I’ve jotted down a few of my observations and experiences relating to money, safety, transport, accommodation, (food I’ve covered in earlier articles), what extras to take, the internet and good buys.

Some tips for would be visitors to Cuba:

Money:

Cuba has two currencies: one for tourists and one for locals. Tourists have to use the CUC or Cuban Convertible Peso which can only be purchased in Cuba. The locals use pesos.

Leave your home country with Euro or Canadian Dollars in cash and/or some in traveler’s cheques. Because I was going to be in Cuba for nearly a month, for the first time ever I traveled with several thousand (this time Euro) in cash. I travel with a Travelex card loaded with money http://www.cashpassport.com.au/ but I couldn’t find a machine to accept it.

I was advised to take small denominations but I found that wasn’t necessary as the banks could change larger denominations.

Credit cards work at a few machines (if you can find them). When I used my Australian issued credit card the amount in CUC was converted to US Dollars (which has a 10% commission), then into Australian dollars – ouch – it was an expensive exercise.

Keep lots of small change for tips and to give away. Wages are incredibly low and a tip of 1CUC (approximately $1.30 AU) will help a lot. Bathroom ladies are prevalent and they have a saucer for small change too.

Safety:

As a solo female traveler I am often asked about the safety of a place. Thankfully, I have no horror stories to report, but locals warned me on numerous occasions to take care of my keys, money, hat, bag, camera etc. In old Habana, and to a lesser extent Trinidad, security is very obvious and this helps to keep the city safe.

Local Transport:

Road transportation between the main destinations is not difficult, but it is rather expensive, when compared to similar economies like Cambodia and Laos.

Bus companies Transtur and Viazul operate air conditioned buses and they are reliable and comfortable. Transtur often operates door to door – usually hotel to hotel but when I stayed in a Vinales the bus driver took some trouble to find and drop me off at my casa! Reservations can be made through various tour agencies or directly with the companies.

In Habana, Vinales and Varadero a hop on hop off bus operates. You pay when you get on the first time and its cheap (relative to other travel in Cuba) and an excellent way to see the country.

Accommodation:

Most of the time I stayed in Casa Particulares – (homes of the locals). I recommend looking around for one that suits. I paid between 25-30CUC per night for a very clean private room, air conditioning and attached bathroom with hot water.

For meals at Casas I typically paid 3CUC for breakfasts and 6CUC for dinners. The food provided by my Casa hosts varied and the servings overly generous. Always, they tried to get food I wanted to eat.

My Casa hosts didn’t speak English very well and so my Spanish/English dictionary was rather dog-eared by the end of my trip. It’s very helpful if you know some of the language.

My Casa host would make a booking with their friends at my next destination. Although, in typical Cuban fashion, twice on arrival the promised room was not available, they always found another room for me somewhere else.

Make Sure You Pack:
Your sense of humour.

Soap (to use as it’s not always offered), small packets of tissues, hand wash (but see my comments in my earlier article), plenty of reading material (books in English are attainable but the supply is very limited), a good conversion plug, a good Spanish/English dictionary and…

Snacks, snacks and more snacks. I was very pleased I’d stocked up with lots of nuts, dried fruit, crackers, chocolate, biscuits etc. Food is rationed here and the supplies are limited.

I also recommend you pack things to give away. I took supplies of chewing gum and pens and wished I’d taken a lot more as they were very gratefully received. I also took hair decorations and coloured felt pens. You will be asked for things e.g. adults asked me for reading books for their children, food, my tee shirts etc.

Internet:

The internet is available but it's slow and expensive and as there are few machines there's a wait – sometimes well over one hour.

In Habana the best places to access the internet is at the hotels where you buy a card, typically for half an hour or one hour. Although the card looks universal, I found that the cards were unique to each establishment meaning any remaining credit couldn’t be used elsewhere.

Sometimes the USB ports worked but many times not.

Good Buys:

Cigars, rum and in some places tee shirts.
Crochet work in Trinidad is excellent and inexpensive in the markets.
Art presented by the artists at the outdoor market off Plaza de Armas is excellent. Negotiation is possible. Great art is also available from Ofelia ORoberto, 19 The Malecon in Habana. Five artists share this space. There are many more small shops selling art. Ensure you have an export certificate for it. They are available from the shop or the agency.
Locally grown organic coffee is excellent and inexpensive.

If you are thinking about going to Cuba, I urge you to do it soon and I hope that you enjoy it as much as I did. If I can help further, please leave me a message and I will be sure to reply. If you have been there, and have a tip to share, feel free to send a message for others to read.

Photo: the art market close to Plaza de Armas

A Romantic Coffee Story

2009-08-08T00:08:00.000-07:00

Some time ago I promised a story about coffee. It’s taken awhile but here it is. It’s a sweet tale from those incurable Cuban romantics.

To win the hand of the woman who had captured his heart, a besotted young man had to present an unusual gift to the father of his beloved.

For three years, he sought something truly special to gift his prospective father-in-law. By chance he came upon a magnificent gift; the aromatic black drink of coffee. His father in law was most impressed with the gift and plans were made for a lavish wedding with many influential guests…..(I guess…the story is silent on this point so I have taken writers license!)

From then on the world (and I) discovered the pleasures of savoring the aroma and taste of a cup of coffee.

The Habanan Escorial Café located on the edge of Plaza la Vieja (I’ve written about this world heritage site earlier) has 60 different types of coffee all made from beans grown in the Escambray Mountains in central Cuba. The beans are roasted on the premises. Some choices here include coffee laced with whiskey, cinnamon and cream; Miss Ochun (coffee with banana liqueur and cream); Cupido (coffee with tangerine liqueur) and so on.

This is THE spot for coffee connoisseurs without doubt. It’s excellent coffee and a good people watching spot in a superb location. As I sit I surprise myself by enjoying that all pervading smoke wafting around me from thick, hand rolled Cuban cigars. Where else but in Cuba? Aah the life of a traveler.

Photos: Coffee Escorial Café - note the cigar options available on the menu!
Cappuccino in Mexico. It looks pretty but I gave up after ordering two since they were very milky and had almost no coffee flavour.
A coffee (and a luscious buttery croissant!) from the New Caledonia market at the start of this trip.

Sundry Photos from Cuba

2009-07-12T18:06:00.000-07:00

Hello all

Going back to Cuba for awhile just to post some more photos from this extremely photogenic country.

Photos:

Chandelier at yet another Habana casa

I was invited to sit in the chair next to this old man as I was out walking.

The "door" intrigued me, especially when it was open!!!

The entrance to my internet cafe in Vinales.....often places were extremely hard to find and no wonder with this kind of signage!

Vinales - message on school wall for students to be punctual!

Monuments to the liberators are all over Vinales

Trinidad is known for its lovely crochet work. I bought some from this lovely lady

A square in Habana

Mexico City – forget the stereotypes

2009-07-12T18:01:00.000-07:00

Mexico City – forget the stereotypes

Mexico City has blown my stereotyped views sky high. Staying in the vibrant Zona Rosa area is quieter than the historic area around the cathedral. The streetscapes are packed with many fabulous sculptures.

Just outside the city (about 50kms north east) is the Teotihuacan pyramid complex which was conceived around 1st century AD and built about 100 years after that. After climbing to the top of the Sun (248 steps!) and Moon pyramids, I awoke the next morning to find that my leg muscles were very stiff and my legs had a mind of their own.

It’s an amazing site showing a glimpse of a former life and so close to the city. Next time I won’t go on a tour so that I have more freedom and time to wander.

In the city, the Museo Nacional de Antropologia is a wonder of information and displays of early history. It would be easy to loose oneself for a day in the excellent displays of early civilization and those depicting the evolution of mankind. Not being all that keen on museums I surprised myself by spending over half a day there and would be happy to return to see what I missed.

Swine flu has decimated tourism here. Several people have said that visitor levels are just 10% of this time last year.

I’m extremely keen to return to this city and to explore more of Mexico.

After a few days in NZ I’ll return to Sydney and must begin the (totally unexpected) search for another job.

Then I will repeat the cycle. Work, travel, work, travel. Aaah what a life this is!

I’m enjoying…….the food here. It’s fresh, tasty and delivered with efficiency and a smile. I’m also enjoying the cooler weather here.

I’m amazed……at just how different Mexico is from my expectations. This country is fascinating. I can’t wait to return.

I’m surprised….that my knowledge and understanding of the Spanish language has grown since I’ve been surrounded by it. It’s still very basic and it is still difficult to make myself understood. The waiters have no patience which is fair enough and they ask if I speak English which I find mildly insulting after my attempts!! Te he. They then converse in my language. However, others are patient and love me trying. I’ve taken to writing in my diary the full date in Spanish and I asked a waiter the other day if what I’d written was correct. He was really happy to tell me that it was! Nice.

I’m looking forward to…….getting back to NZ for a time. Actually by the time I get this published I will be back in the cold.

Photos: Ancient mural

The pyramid - I climbed all 248 steps to the top to see the centuries old sites laid out before me.

Mexico City – my hotel and my location

2009-07-12T17:55:00.000-07:00

Mexico City – my hotel and my location

The staff at my hotel, Eurostar Zona Rosa (http://www.eurostarhotels.com/) are fantastic and so too is my hotel which I selected after researching and reading the good reports on http://www.tripadvisor.com/. I love tripadvisor.

It was really difficult to decide where to stay, in this sprawling city of 19 million people. However, I am happy I selected the Zona Rosa area which is in the gay friendly part of town. Despite (or perhaps because of) the massive number of police, armed with huge serious looking guns, and security guards it feels a safe area for a lone tourist.

It’s been lovely staying in this small very friendly hotel which is well located for relatively easy access to key attractions, shops, cafes and a market.

The hotel might be small but there is nothing small about my room, or should I say rooms.

I have a lounge room with a TV, a three seater and two seater couch, microwave, coffee maker etc and then my massive bed made up with pure white starched sheets and another TV etc. Internet is wireless and free which is always a bonus to this traveler.

After Cuba it was extremely exciting to see things in shops and, probably more importantly, things you might want to buy. Yet another reminder of how hard the Cubans have it with their rationing of all manner of things including food.

But in Mexico I was extremely impressed with the silver jewelry and spoiled myself by splurging on a few pieces. What’s more it was difficult to limit myself to just a few such is the creative artistry shown in the design and craftsmanship.

I’m loving….the shops….all glitter, light and lovely displays.

I’m enjoying….all the sculptures in the street. Along the Reforma (a wide tree lined avenue) the seats magnificently sculptured in bronze of many and varied designs. The Mexicans have taken such pride in these pieces of art.

I’m missing…..netball….netball and more netball. Thankfully a friend keeps giving me the competition updates.

I’m surprised…..just how cosmopolitan this city is and how much art’s on display for all to enjoy.

It was touching…...to have the bell hop stand on the side of the street and wave goodbye to me as I was driven to the airport in my taxi. How often has that happened to travelers? It's a first for me....what about you?

Photos: Some ice madam?

Mexican vendor

A Cautionary Tale

2009-07-11T23:42:00.000-07:00

Hello all
I’d been traveling for a few months and part of my “stay healthy travel kit” was a bottle of hand sanitizer which I used regularly before eating. Some restaurants, notably in Mexico City, waiters routinely offered its guests a dollop of this lotion from a large bottle.

I’d been congratulating myself on my continued good health when suddenly my hands erupted in several ugly looking sores. The skin on my hands was red and raw in several places, mainly by the joints and down my index fingers.

Naturally I was concerned I'd picked up a skin disease somewhere in my travels. Thankfully, a quick visit to a medical specialist confirmed it was simply a case of washing my hands too often which had depleted the natural oils in my skin. Huh!!

I'd been using the hand sanitizer too often without a corresponding increase in applying hand cream. Using this and other alcohol based washing products had stripped the natural oils from my skin.

For the past three days I've been trying to nourish my hands to restore the balance but they are still a little raw.

The solution for future travels?......... I’ll continue using this hand gel but add in a regular and generous dose of intensive nourishing hand cream!

My first dining experience in Mexico city

2009-07-04T18:39:00.000-07:00

My First Dining Experience in Mexico City
It’s always a minor miracle when, in non English speaking countries, the food delivered to my table is what I asked for, or even something close to that! With each success I grin to myself, just a little.

On my first morning here, I waived the easy option of breakfast at the hotel, where staff members speak my language extremely well. Instead I wandered close to my base along the open air mall lined with restaurants and shops.

I entered a restaurant and sat down. None of the staff spoke English. Undaunted, but too tired to make much effort, I ordered coffee and a tortilla (a type of Spanish omelette). My coffee arrived promptly. Then I waited and waited but no food arrived. The waiter hovered and I could tell he was concerned for my welfare but what he was saying was a complete mystery to me.

After some time he said “algo mas?” Ah ha, I know that one - it means “anything else?” I tried to explain that my egg order hadn’t materialized but in my tired state it was too hard.

He then had a brain wave and presented me with a massive basket of breads, croissants and other tasty goodies. I confess, that this time, I took the easy option and selected sugared croissant. So much for a protein based breakfast.

Thankfully it’s not always like that.

I'm loving....the vibe of this city which is completely unexpected.

I'm amazed....at how attentive, professional and caring the restaurant staff are.

I'm reading....ooh some fluff!!! It kept my mind occupied but I can't remember what it was.

I'm missing....all my favourite food. Before I left Cuba I was really missing the easy access to the internet and wireless connections. However, my hotel here in Mexico has free wireless internet. What a bonus! I love that!

sorry no photos to accompany this one. I will try in a day or two or three.

Especially for my Australian Friends

2009-07-04T18:30:00.000-07:00

Hello there all my Australian Friends

I was wandering around Habana and could hardly believe my eyes when I looked up and saw the billing for Baz's film "Australia". I toyed....only momentarily ....with going but I resisted. I thought it would have been really funny to see it with a Spanish speaking audience. However, this photo is especially for you!

TOTALLY Chilled....

2009-07-04T18:23:00.000-07:00

Totally Chilled…..

I don’t think it would be possible for me to be more relaxed than I am right now. A few nights in Vinales and three nights in Las Terrazas at the Hotel Moka has totally eliminated any residual stress. Not that there was much stress now that I’ve been on vacation for over one month. It feels longer but my calendar tells me it is just a month.

Las Terrazas is an intriguing spot and quite unlike anything else (I’ve seen) in Cuba. It’s an eco resort.

Burning off and bad land management techniques over time, left the small community of around 1000 people living in poor conditions. In the early 70’s a reservoir was created, a model settlement constructed and pines planted to stabilise the hillsides. The government approved an eco-tourism resort and in the 90’s Hotel Moka was sensitively constructed to blend into the hillside. It’s pretty and peaceful…if you ignore the barking dogs that is.

One hundred metres or so from the hotel is an eco/organic vegetarian restaurant – El Romero. A vegetarian restaurant is very rare in Cuba. The food is so divine I went back for several meals. They offer something I would love to see other café’s and restaurants adopt – the option of choosing a small, medium or large portion.

I’ve had an incredibly (plenty of emphasis on the word incredibly!) laid back time in Las Terrazas watching day turn ever so slowly into night and vice versa. As I sat on the deck chair (not rocking this time) I spent hours observing the black hawk like birds swoop gracefully through the trees in front of me. Sometimes they get involved in “fights” chasing smaller birds.

Next I’ll spend a few more days in Habana then Mexico, NZ then Sydney. The temperature here has been mostly around 32 degrees so going back to the cold will be a little bit of a shock. But, I’m told the mountains are covered in snow and so looking across Lake Taupo to the Mts Ruapehu, Ngaruhoe and Tongariro will be a pretty sight; one I always enjoy.

Photos: The Hotel Moka

Another car...this time with bullet holes in the door. There are many cars around with bullet holes.

The Valley of Vinales

2009-06-25T08:39:00.000-07:00

According to the itinerary listed for the Vinales hop on hop off bus, after a big loop, my destination is supposed to be the last stop – the La Ermita Hotel where I plan to stay awhile to enjoy the view. But no! It’s the first stop and I’m in time for my morning coffee.

As I got off the bus I was pleased about the blissful peace and quiet. I’m keen to enjoy the magnificent view in peace and solitude and sup a hot, strong coffee.

But this is Cuba and despite the fact that I am the alone in the outside dining space the music begins to blare out; this time it’s a CD. Still the coffee is very good; the view of the valley stretching out below me superb and the hotel looks nice. I had planned to stay here but was swayed by a casa particulares in the valley of Vinales.
When I arrived in Vinales I was a little grumpy (a 7 hour bus ride that turned into 9 didn’t help) but my mood was softened by my handsome, charming and generous casa host offering me a chilled glass of papaya juice and with an arc of his arms said “my casa is your casa; my deck is your deck" etc. I instantly felt embarrassed and humbled.

The casa’s here are close together and many offer accommodation to “turista’s” – probably about ¾ of the houses have signs out. I was excited to meet another kiwi chap staying in the casa next door - the first New Zealander I’ve met on this trip. He comes from Remuera but was in Cuba on vacation from his volunteer teaching work in Costa Rica.

I enjoyed many hours out on the small deck in the front of my casa whiling away the time chatting with the Italians who also stayed two nights and watching the light change over the hills in the distance.
On my first night, replete after a superb dinner, I retired and despite the drone from the air conditioning unit, slept soundly to be woken at 0500 by a rooster in full and glorious voice!

I love the life here; where kids play on the streets; where a woman takes half an hour to pick a few flowers from one bush; where people start and finish their days chatting and watching street activities from their rocking chairs. Twice, as I was out strolling locals invited me to sit in the empty rocking chair beside them. It’s really nice and it makes me realize how frenetic our lives have become.

I’m missing…..the ease of conversing in English. Oh and cappuccino…..its espresso for me.

I’m loving….the gluggy reddish guava paste my hosts serve up for breakfast with fresh bread. Yum…yum.

I’m happy….that I made the trip west to Vinales.

I’m reading….an intriguing novel “Norwegian Wood” by Japanese author Murakami. It’s heavy but exquisitely crafted. I selected it in Trinidad where I had just 8 books to choose from. It’s a find.

I’ve decided….to add Las Terrazas to my itinerary which is about two hours from here. Some tourists I met in Trinidad recommended it and so I’m booked to stay at The Hotel Moka - an eco-tourism resort built in 1992. It’s unique to Cuba and has been a great success providing work opportunities for a small very poor community. I’m keen to check it out and will write more about it later.

Photos:

blue car in the main street.

Horse and cart taken from "my" rocking chair on the deck of my casa particulares. Yes another rocking chair!

The man across the road lighting up. Unlike food, cigars aren't rationed I believe.

The valley of Vinales. Vinales is about four hours west of Habana.

Hola

2009-06-21T08:15:00.000-07:00

Hola all
This is just a quick update as I leave the Valley of Vinales....a very pretty town. I am going to Las Terazzas for a few days which is an eco resort about two hours from here. Phew....not the seven hour trip from Trinidad which actually took 9 hours. I was a very tired traveller after that trip. From there Habana again. I will add an article and some more photos from my next stop if I can get access to the internet etc.
By the way...sorry about any errors in my writing....blame it on the heat....writing very quickly....and the keyboards!
Thanks very much for the comments you have left....I´m not sure why they aren´t showing but I appreciate them very much. I like to write but its even nicer when people let me know they are enjoying reading ábout my experiences. Cheers. J

The Train Trip

2009-06-18T11:54:00.000-07:00

Hola everyone

Finally I´ve been able to load a couple of items!

Here are a couple of pix from the steam train trip into a valley a few hours away from here. The area has a rather gruesome history with a slave trader earning a fortune from his trading and sugar production. He built a watch tower.

The photos are all from the train trip. Imagine OSH allowing tourists to ride on the cab of a train!

Quaint, Cruisey Trinidad

2009-06-18T11:42:00.000-07:00

I felt invigorated to be here, from the moment my air-conditioned bus bumped and maneuvered its way into town along the narrow quaint cobbled streets of Trinidad.

Once again I’ve chosen to stay at a casa and my hosts are wonderful. They speak little English. In fact I think the language imbalance is more in my favour than theirs so there’s lots of gesturing and smiles, and even more unsaid. There’s much I want to ask but the language barrier does not permit that. I had planned to be here three nights but instantly extended it to five and Bianca’s face lit up when I asked to stay longer. How nice!

The food is outstanding here too and they are keen to please, but don’t invade my privacy. Here are the contact details – Bianca Del Pino Sandoval, 112 Francisco Peterssen Phone (53) (01) (41) 992430. The family have lived in this home since 1850!

Ah….as I read all of the details on the card, it notes that there is hot and cold water 24 hours. Hmmm now I wonder why I’ve been having cold showers. Could it be that I didn’t turn on the tap marked “C” which in English stands for cold but here its caliente which means hot? Fria is cold. Or is it that I didn’t run the water for long enough? In Habana I was advised to run the tap for between 1 and 30 minutes to get the hot water through.

But I digress. My room is large, light, airy and is comfortable. It’s exceptionally charming in a rustic way. I have frilly shiny pink satin bedspreads topped with red satin heart shaped cushions. Its lovely to be here and the home is scrupulously clean and very central to everything here in Trinidad.

On my first night here I slept for 12 hours straight. In the early morning, in that delicious state, as I drifted in and out of sleep I was vaguely aware of alien sounds outside. It was a surreal experience. I heard roosters crowing, children calling cheerfully to one another, a man shouting “paper, paper” as he wandered down the street selling door to door, and the echo of horse’s hooves as they clip clopped down the ancient cobbled streets. Not for the first time whilst journeying, as I awakened to welcome a new day, I was ever so slightly disoriented by these unusual sounds.

Every house here it seems, and this one is no exception, has a number of rocking chairs, in their lounges, on decks and in the enclosed courtyards. They get a lot of use too. I know this because I can see through the houses to the courtyards out the back through the white (usually) wrought iron bars used so they can keep doors and windows open to any breeze yet have some security. Locals stand at the bars, or sit in their rocking chairs and watch the outside activity, or stop awhile for a neighbourly chat.

I whiled away many hours on “my” balcony in the wrought iron rocking chair. The balcony opens off my room via three sets of very tall double doors and is “the spot” for catching a breeze as it wafts by.

On my first outing, I happened across a nice café; Cafeteria Las Begonis which has long opening hours so it was good for my mid morning coffee (excellent) and also later in the day for a bottle of the very good local brew (Cristal) to cool down.

Horse and cart is by far the most prevalent form of transport here and, out on the street, it takes awhile to get used to the smell. Having said that, I’ve seen no dung, so its obviously cleaned up quickly. The locals are constantly cleaning street frontages and courtyards. Many horses are painfully thin and they stand patiently waiting for their owners to load up the cart with another consignment. There are bikes and some cars too but not in the same numbers.

I’ve was contented staying at that casa and enjoyed just wandering the streets and observing. This town, sandwiched between the Sierra del Escambray mountains and the Caribbean .....14 kms away.....is a special spot.

I’m loving…..different sights and sounds in this laid back town.

I’m enjoying….not wearing a watch.

Best coffee… EVERYWHERE. Except for Varadero the coffee’s been excellent.

I’m reading….a lighthearted read…… “Always the Bridesmaid” by Sarah Webb. It made me laugh and lives up to its dust cover blurb which states it’s an excellent book to take on holiday. After reading it I was able to trade the book with a local. ALWAYS a bonus when on the road and like to read.

Photos....All Trinidad and of course my rocker......

Cuba...oh the food.

2009-06-18T11:35:00.000-07:00

The food….or I should say ooooh the food.

Whilst it’s true that no-one comes to Cuba for the food, the traveler has the expectation of being able to find food at meal times.

I must say that at the beginning at least, it was trial and error. Often the menu displayed at establishments looked rather promising, but it’s a show. Several times now I have been tempted into a place and ordered but the waiter shakes his head rather sadly and says “sorry, no that’s not possible”.

On my first evening here I was lulled into a false sense of security when I ordered fish and vegetables. It was my first choice and was absolutely divine. I rather rashly concluded things had improved since my friend Suzanne’s visit and her advice to take snacks; plenty of them. I’m glad I did.

In Habana (this is how the locals refer to their capital city so I will continue to use that spelling); I ended up having a sweet cake for breakfast, and that was certainly not my first choice. I’d been wandering for over two hours and was desperate; many more listed items were unavailable.

For another breakfast I ordered the least offending item on the menu; a toasted cheese and tomato sandwich. The bread was a very unappetizing yellow colour! Thank goodness for all the nuts I bought in the USA.

At one establishment (the waiter said it was a very good restaurant and it looked it) I ordered fish and vegetables which the waiter assured me was available. Soon I overheard the waiter on the phone asking for vegetables. Some time later, some beans arrived on a plate and presented to the waiter. I swear these exact same beans were incorporated into my sautéed veges. The fish – it was wedged between ham and cheese (!!!) and deep fried in bread crumbs. Now that’s a first. Yikes!

After writing this, in Varadero, I happened upon the Barracuda restaurant beside the beach where I ate red snapper, prepared simply. It was DIVINE. It’s also difficult to imagine more superb setting in the world.

Aside from the Barracuda Restaurant, my very best food experiences have been at casa particulares (homes of locals) and I ate in. What a refreshing contrast! Another of the many contrasts here in Cuba. The food was tasty and plentiful.

For breakfast my Habana host, Pepe, was able to secure, pineapple, mango, bananas, guava, watermelon etc. For dinner I had fried (the most popular method of cooking) chicken, cucumber, beetroot, kumara, tomato, cabbage etc. Many vegetables are organic and what flavour! My casa hosts never join me at the table which feels extremely uncomfortable.

Likewise at my casa hosts in Trinidad were truly wonderful. The meals are absolutely superb and such variety. Again, the food is put on the table and I am left to eat it.

The people are truly kind, and having a “turista” gives them more rights to particular food, quantity and of course (much needed) additional money.

As an aside, casa’s are registered with the government and my personal details are noted.

I´m missing.....toast!

I´m loving....the honey. It´s sublime and if NZ and Australia didn´t ban it....I would bring back a supply.

Photos ' The Cuban flag and ¨Che¨

A couple of random photos

2009-06-15T13:46:00.000-07:00

Some random photos ' the roses ' in relief, my bedroom chandelier ' first casa.

The star ....this is in the Capitol Building and all distances in Cuba are measured from this point.

Just a couple of random photos. The tiles are from the bathroom in my first casa particulares. The detail here was just superb.

Casas are an excellent way to experience life with the locals but still as a ¨turista¨(tourist). In each place I have had aircon, en suite and in some cases a balcony for my exclusive use. They are all fantastic hosts and very proud to have visitors. I love it. Of course, one gives up a little freedom....but not much.

By the way....I´m in Trinidad now and loving it. I planned to stay for three nights but have just extended it to five. Tomorrow I´m off on a steam train journey into whats promoted as a very pretty trip.

Hopefully will have an update and some photos (of Trinidad) from this very historic and picturesque town of around 55,000 residents and the train trip.

Package Tourists

2009-06-15T13:34:00.000-07:00

Package Tourists

Varadero beach is gorgeous. It’s fine white sandy beach extends mile after glorious mile in each direction of my resort.

But, this is not my kind of place and I don’t like being here very much. I have a wrist band to identify me and what kind of package I have.

This place is tailor made for the all inclusive type of tourist where they have flights, hotel, food, entertainment and all they want to drink for one price. I rebel against all of that as I would rather find places and meet the locals.

Nonetheless, I am pleased I visited. The beach extends along the peninsular for a 20 kilometre swathe of unbroken white sands edging the Straits of Florida which is very pretty. Its been a lovely rest and my hotel room is large, comfortable and has a nice shower with hot water. A bonus, I caught up on my washing. From my balcony, large enough to host a party of twenty, I can watch more glorious sunsets.

This is a beautiful part of Cuba and down this end many of the hotels blend rather sensitively into the landscape. At the “posh” end, hotels are pristine, prissie, protrude and are pricey.

Getting around is very easy. There’s the option of – horse and cart; new taxi, old (beautifully restored or not) taxi, scooter and buggy contraption or the Varadero hop on hop off bus (approx AUD6). Yesterday while I waited for the bus an old white Cadillac convertible taxi passed me by. If I see it again, I’m hailing it and going for a ride; anywhere…it is gorgeous.

Supermarkets are also reasonably well stocked here, unlike Habana. I got ripped off yesterday by not one but by two cashiers. At one I was overcharged. The second I was shortchanged and when I kept my hand out the change was topped up, but I reaslised later, it still wasn’t enough. So I was on my guard at the bank and managed to pick up a really good trick. When counting out my Euro, I noticed one note float off the desk. Naturally I thought she would finish counting and pick it up. But she brazenly overlooked it and said “Euro 140”.

My response, “I think one note dropped on the floor”. After a cursory glance she replied “No. I stood calmly and after a short delay, she looked harder and retrieved my 10 Euro!

Photo: Gorgeous Varadero Beach.

Sunset from my deck at Varadero....there were some good things here!!!

I´m off to Trinidad next. I added this to my trip. Will let you know how I enjoy that.

Out and About in Habana

2009-06-13T12:20:00.000-07:00

Out and about in Habana

I am a disgraceful tourist! It’s excessively hot outside and I retreated to the coffee shop attached to the Hotel Habana Libre. This hotel, once part of the Hilton chain, was commandeered by Castro’s men in January 1959 just a few months after it had opened. Castro ran the countries affairs from the 24th floor of this hotel for awhile. Photos on the 2nd floor show his men lounging about in the hotel.

I managed to cool down in the cafes airconditioned bliss whilst indulging in some passable food.

What a beguiling city this is. Around every corner intriguing new sights unfold, sending my senses into overdrive!

Earlier I walked several kilometers from the Gran Teatro de La Habana (the outstanding building is home of the national ballet), along the curved waterfront and up to the hotel. By the way, I tried to get tickets but they are not currently performing and they couldn’t advise whether they are later in June; I will try again.

Anyway, I strolled down the majestically shaded avenue to the harbour. I was so busy gawping at the buildings around me that I nearly missed the large modern sculptres lining the middle of the pedestrian walkway I was strolling down. Every few metres seats invite passersby to stop and rest awhile. And I did.

The waterfront area is being developed and once complete will surely tempt tourists by the plane load.

From my airconditioned seat in the café I can see the queue over the road steadily growing as locals wait patiently for an ice-cream. Cuba is famous for Coppelia ice-cream as it is for people having to queue for all manner of goods and services. Apparently you stand in line and have whatever flavour is offered that day. As yet, I haven’t been tempted. Perhaps after tomorrow when I’m at the beach resort of Varadero which is about four hours by road from here, I will indulge.

Apparently Varadero is very touristy so I am unsure how long I will want to stay.

Photos: A very happy artist

signing the piece of work I just purchased.

Typical touristy photo.

The antique bookstore in Plaza de Armas.....

Oh the language.

2009-06-09T14:46:00.000-07:00

Oh the language. Or should that be oooh the language?

The colonization of Cuba began 1511 (nearly 20 years after Christopher Columbus sighted it) by Diego Valazquez de Cuellar who arrived with a Spanish flotilla of four ships and 400 men and began a brutal occupation. Spanish has remained the primary language of Cuba.

I am so very glad I learnt some before coming here but it is very basic. Probably age three level! I can pick up more than I can say but I keep trying.

The education system here (and health) is excellent to University level and free. The adult literacy rate is currently 97%. Many speak multiple languages and very well too. Morning television has tuition classes for many languages including English.

So for the 2million (approximately) visitors to this island, who do not speak the language well, there is help nearby. I’m asking “hablo en poco espanol” and “hablo en inglese”? (which translates to “I speak a little Spanish” and “do you speak English”?) often.

I was writing this as I waited for my breakfast and a four piece ban just assembled and began to play. It’s just for me; I am the sole diner at this café on the edge of Plaza de Vieja. As usual the bowl rests in front of them and I know I will pay for this treat soon.

Around the perimeter of this square I see beautifully restored buildings, some in various stages of restoration, across one corner a magnificient (actually I could really over-use that word in this city) a hotel façade complete with idle yellow crane. There doesn’t appear to be any work being done on any of these buildings. From what I can remember of my friend Gav’s photos (he visited about two years ago), it looks the same.

This square was an open air market until 1835. Today, I wish it were again. It needs people. But for now I have a seat at a restaurant on the edge of a historic square to enjoy and enjoy it I did.

2009-06-09T07:43:00.001-07:00

Hello all.
I just tried to load an article but I kept getting errors. They guys here don't know what's wrong so I will try another internet cafe ....if I can find one and try again. I had some great photos too. Bye for now....must escape this air conditioned room and go out into the searing heat. J

I’m not sure I should be let out alone

2009-06-07T12:24:00.000-07:00

Honestly I’m not sure I should be let out alone!!!

I had been wandering joyfully along the decaying but beautiful calles (streets) of Old Havana when I looked down at my blouse to discover the middle button undone, revealing my (admittedly chaste) bra. Horrors!

This could bring a new meaning to the chap enthusiastically shouted “I love you” and proceed to strum his guitar and serenade me with the song “I just called to say I love you”. And I thought he was hustling the tourist for a tip. Or later, the guy who blew me an enthusiastic kiss as I sat supping a cold beer and awaited my meal whilst watching the world go by.

Life on the street here is vibrant and talented musicians play a variety of instruments so the sound wafts alluringly around every corner of this city. It is a place of contrasts; I have no seat on my toilet at the casa but I have TWO glorious chandeliers. Much here looks very jaded but clearly was once exquisite.

After an hour here I was convinced that I am in love. I’ve found a place to rival Vientiane (Laos) and Cambodia’s Siem Reap. I want to walk like the locals. They exude style and sexuality in every move; both males and females.

I had a divine coffee at Plaza Vieja where some of the old buildings which have World Heritage status are undergoing renovations. Even the coffee rivals that of Laos (which is organic and grown locally) or New Zealand (where we have perfected coffee roasting of the imported ingredients). I have an idea for a posting about coffee but that can wait for another day when I have sampled a few more.

It’s been very hot today but around mid afternoon a refreshing breeze provided some relief. I had an early night because I calculated I had spent over 24 hours at airports since I left Sydney. Then there’s the flying time to add to that so I am a very tired but deliciously happy traveller.

I’m surprised…..how quickly I fell in love with this city.

I’m glad…..that I took Spanish lessons but wished I had worked harder with it and that I’d taken the time to do a refresher course. Its coming back to me though and I sometimes I’m able to make myself understood. They are very patient with my attempts and I think its appreciated. I have this philosophy that a traveler is in their land and so one should never expect English but it does make life easier with certain dealings.

I love the helpfulness of the locals…..I was looking for a new Casa today. The one recommended to me didn’t suit and so the owner walked a few blocks with me calling in on several (they are not easily identifiable). He found a lady with a room but it didn’t suit either so she made several calls and finally found a possibility for me. That owner came to get me and walked me back to his place for an inspection. I’m going to move there (Pepe’s place) on Monday. It has a balcony overlooking the street and although the water is cold (only), I chose it because it has more light and a table for me to set up my laptop etc.

Photos: the lounge room at my casa (house)

Typical old buildings.

Sunset New Caledonia Style

2009-06-02T00:16:00.000-07:00

This photo is taken from the yacht which was tucked up in a little bay off Mathieu Island (approximately 4 hours cruising from Noumea). I used my new 18-200 mm lense which I love.

Isn't it great? We had several glorious sunsets with sun beams reaching all the way to the boat.

Nautilus Retrieval

2009-06-02T00:06:00.000-07:00

Nautilus Retrieval

We were cruising around Baie de St Vincent and Pam spotted a nautilus shell bobbing in the water. Allan yelled “I’m turning around! Get something to collect it – these are rare and valuable”.

Turning around a 48 foot yacht is not that easy but Allan executed it expertly. Retrieving the shell, however, was not that easy and it necessitated several maneuvers and the three of us working in tandem to get it. Eventually Pam (with me leaving over the lifelines using the boat hook to gently push it towards her) she managed to scoop the old shell safely onto the boat. It’s a precious and rare find.

News to me, but nautilus are fascinating creatures (part of the mollusk family) unchanged for more than 100 million years. The shells grow to around 30cm (the one we scooped up is about 15cm across), is lined with mother of pearl.

Its shell is divided into 36 chambers which are formed one after the other over years. Before developing a new chamber, the old one is closed off. The chambers are filled with a mixture of water gas and air which it adjusts for buoyancy as it plumbs depths of up to 500 metres on the edge of the barrier reef. I found this truly amazing and made the find even more special.

Photo: Nautilus shell on the after deck.

This IS the Life!

2009-05-30T21:11:00.000-07:00

Wow….this is the life!!! I’m sitting in the cockpit writing this as we cruise along. I love it that I'm a touch typist so I can write my thoughts down whilst watching as the world goes by.

The weather is much improved since my arrival on a wet and gloomy day. After a few nights tucked up close to Port Moselle in Noumea we were able to get away to some of the bays and islands south of this polluted city.

Port Moselle is very close to the local market and so we were able to wander over there to stock up on some supplies for our time away from civilization. It was a special treat to shop “like the French” and survey the fresh goods on offer then make our selection. Although expensive the quality and taste is excellent. Some examples: a rotisserie chicken $25, two Toulouse sausages $8, five slices of bacon $13 etc. Wine is relatively cheap (thank goodness for that!) and the few bottles we bought rather nice.

However, as we are on the yacht and doing our own catering we have been able to eat (very well) for around $20 per person per day and that includes wine! The food is incredibly tasty.

Out on the water, marine life seems rather prolific. We were treated to a couple of dolphins cruising languidly near the boat, their shiny fin poking out of the water.

Pam threw some old bread into the water and two remora (see the photo) came to breakfast. These fish travel in pairs and come out from hiding whenever tasty morsels are close by. The flat section on their heads is used to cling to the underside of the boat. Freeloaders!

Yesterday I saw a turtle poke its head above the water; too far away to see the imperious look on its old face. I also saw a colourfully striped sea snake wriggle away from the boat. Friends of my hosts passed by the bay we were in and said they'd just caught two tuna off the boat.

I'm posting this via the generosity of McDonald’s where for the price of a coffee....oooh my!!, we get free internet access.

I’m loving……..being on the road again and in this very relaxed state. It’s addictive. Of course I absolutely love being on the water again and with such excellent hosts.

I’m enjoying…..the food here. The chicken was as tasty as any I’ve ever had. The patisserie a visual and taste sensation. Fresh island grown paw paw with a squeeze of lime juice is exquisite my list goes on and on but I won't bore you anymore.

I’m missing…….hmmmmmm.

I’m fascinated…..by how polite the French are. I love the way they greet customers when entering their domain, say merci and au reviour. It’s very nice.

Best coffee…….the market has divine local coffee. A petit café noir is around $3.50 and the surrounding accents and demenour of the locals beguiling.

A Tour Guide Shows Sydney

2009-04-22T03:16:00.000-07:00

The Easter break in Sydney disappeared in a whirl of activity. I took on the role of tour guide to show a friend some of the sights of this great city; to explore some of the harbour walks and try a few eating places.

By the end of my friends visit, we'd had a marvellous time, despite my “low caffeine warning light” being on, which was entirely my fault.

The time disappeared in a blur but some of the activities we enjoyed: Watson’s Bay (further around from Bondi Beach) and a stroll along the fine golden coloured sand. We walked up the track past a notice which reminded those walking the track that they must be fully clothed! Sure enough, when I glanced down onto the pretty curved beach, the sight of the naked bodies was not a pretty one - sorry no photos! However, the spectacular views back over the city and to the Sydney Heads is pretty. It's the entrance for ships entering/leaving the inner harbour.

After our walk, Doyle’s (the famous fish restaurant) waylaid us, and on a gloriously hot day, we sat on the jetty and munched our way through a delicious serving of fish and chips.

Of course the walk I’ve written about previously from Coogee to Bondi Beach had to be repeated. I really love the Bronte (about half way) to Bondi Beach section and en route a compulsory stop at the café beside Tamarama beach. It is always very welcome for both the location and the caffeine hit.

Another day and another walk - the Maroubra to Coogee walk was new to both of us. These beaches all link up to those mentioned earlier in this posting. Unfortunately after some glorious sun kissed days, a storm threatened. Nonetheless, we decided to risk it and I am glad we did. Maroubra Beach is less sophisticated and not as built up as the other areas we pass along and it appeals more to me. Along the way some interesting honey combed cliff faces made for some creative photography.

Just after we reached Coogee and stopped for lunch at a nearby cafe (with excellent Numero Uno coffee) the clouds burst and a torrent of water raged down the street. Clearly it was sometime since people in the area had seen such a deluge because there were many excited spectators. When we returned to my wee place at Bondi Junction, just a 15 minute bus ride away it appeared as though there had been little rain.

Another walk - from Milson’s Point, we walked back to the city over the Sydney Harbour Bridge as day turned into night. Bats flew noisily overhead and before our leisurely stroll was over bright neon lights transformed the sky. It is always a joy to watch the sun setting over the iconic Sydney Opera House and once back at Circular Quay we stopped for a drink (or was that two!) beside the water. After dinner and a visit to the chocolate desert café in the Rocks, it was another late night out in this vibrant city.

Unfortunately the view from my preferred stop on Circular Quay (the Cruise Bar) was obscured by a newly arrived ship, but a few days later I was able to sit there (no ship this time!) with another friend and watch the sun setting over the Opera House yet again. I never tire of that view.

What I'm reading....The Secret River by Australian writer Kate Grenville. Also my Spanish language books to brush up on my skills.

I'm surprised....for Anzac Day Australians wear a piece of rosemary on their lapels. The striking poppy is for Remembrance Day. This auspicious day is my birthday which I celebrated here last year but I didn't see any poppies.

I'm loving.... travelling relatively light and being free of possessions. Part of this is not having to clear out gutters, no car to fill with petrol or check tyre pressures and living in a small space. The latter is my choice but I love it.

Photo: Watsons Bay

2009-03-09T00:32:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Sydney with one red suitcase (full of clothes) and, in my backpack, my camera and laptop. I've been working here just over six months now.... I now own (in Australia) the following:

a work wardrobe for both summer and winter,
an iron....

several pair of shoes

and a beaut leather (yellow) couch! How well will this pack?

I've also added several pillows (well its difficult to get one that suits and besides, they look good piled up on my bed!),

an assortment of cutlery, crockery, vases, candles

and I've added a slow cooker to my possessions. etc etc

Ouch! How did that happen?

The truth is that the longer I spend here, the more I surround myself with a few nice things so that I am comfortable.

My employer's have asked me back after my next trip, so it seems as though I will be in Sydney awhile. That's my excuse for buying a few things.

But, in May I leave and during this trip I will be sailing in New Caledonia, then traveling around Cuba, Mexico and NZ.

Besides....I'm still thoroughly enjoying the travel (and planning it), life and my work so why not?

A few weekends back I had a lovely trip to Canberra with a friend. The trip via the small towns of was most interesting and the company excellent.

In a few weeks time I have another of my friends from NZ to visit while on business and I'll enjoy a catch up. Then over Easter another friend will visit for a few days. Together we'll explore more of this wonderful city and perhaps take a rental car (I haven't succumbed to a car purchase yet) up the coast for more sights.

I just love it......

The Important Things in Life

2009-03-09T00:25:00.000-07:00

The Important Things in Life
When things in your life seem almost too much to handle,
When 24 Hours in a day is not enough,
Remember the mayonnaise jar and 2 cups of coffee.

A professor stood before her philosophy class
And had some items in front of him.
When the class began, wordlessly,
She picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar
And proceeded to fill it with golf balls.

She then asked the students, if the jar was full.
They agreed that it was.

The professor then picked up a box of pebbles and poured
them into the jar. She shook the jar lightly.
The pebbles rolled into the open areas between the golf balls.

She then asked the students again
If the jar was full... They agreed it was.

The professor next picked up a box of sand
And poured it into the jar. Of course, the sand filled up everything else.
She asked once more if the jar was full. The students responded
With a unanimous 'yes.'

The professor then produced two cups of coffee from under the table
And poured the entire contents into the jar, effectively
Filling the empty space between the sand.
The students laughed.

'Now,' said the professor, as the laughter subsided,
'I want you to recognize that this jar represents your life.
The golf balls are the important things – Children, family,
health, friends, lovers and favorite passions –
Things that if everything else was lost
And only they remained, your life would still be full.

The pebbles are the other things that matter – whatever that may be to you -
your job, house, and car.

The sand is everything else - the small stuff.

If you put the sand into the jar first, she continued,
There’s no room for the pebbles or the golf balls.
The same goes for life.

If you spend all your time and energy on the small stuff,
You will never have room for the things that are
IMPORTANT TO YOU.

SO.........

Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness.
Play with your children.
Take time to get medical checkups.
Take your partner out to dinner....smell the flowers

There will always be time
To clean the house and clean the gutters.

Take care of the golf balls first -
The things that really matter.
Set your priorities. The rest is just sand.

Then one of the students raised her hand
And inquired what the coffee represented.

The professor smiled.

It just goes to show you that no matter how full your life may seem,
there's always room for a couple of cups of coffee with a friend.

Apologies…I do not know the source of this tale but I say
Hear hear.

My calendar – the wonderful one with coffee sayings has a speech bubble
With “CAFFEINE QUEEN”….that’s ME!

Stage One of My Journey

2009-02-12T00:04:00.000-08:00

It's just over one year since I left NZ!!! Here are some of the countries I visited.

I especially want to go back to Cambodia (Angkor Wat and other temples) and Laos.

But in the meantime, I am planning more exciting journeys and will keep you posted.....of course!!!

A New Year on the Road

2009-01-15T01:06:00.000-08:00

I hope that 2009 will be happy and joyful for all of you. For this writer.....the year promises another exciting one with many new adventures on the drawing board.

Pre Xmas saw me juggling multiple work projects to meet deadlines before going on holiday. Consequently, I had to be very focused and prioritise my workload so as not to over promise and under-deliver! Aah…how the memory of how laid back I felt throughout my travels earlier in the year (especially in places like Laos and Vietnam when I walked through the whispering rice fields, or raced around the countryside on the back of a scooter etc) became overlaid with the pressure of meeting those deadlines.

But, on the 19th of December the University closed for a couple of weeks so I was able to have a wonderful break and during this time I saw much more of Australia which was great. I joined my sisters in Melbourne for a lovely and relaxing Xmas. I spent time walking along the Yarra River, wandering in and out of the old Xmas themed malls and stopping awhile to rejoice in chance encounters. In the atrium of the Crowne Casino I chanced upon a magnificent Xmas performance of carols. The choristers’ attired in rich red velvet costumes, presented the casual passersby with a spirited, harmonious rendition of several old favourites. I was transfixed.

After Xmas, I took a seat on a train going from Melbourne to Sydney. For 12 hours I sat and gazed out of the window at the countryside whipping past me. Although it was a long trip, it was interesting. The land for about 4/5 hours out of Melbourne looked parched but as we neared Sydney it looked much greener.

I was keen to see the New Year fireworks while here in Sydney and I was invited to a lovely party so we had an amazing view of the action from the 11th floor of an apartment. It was truly spectacular and if I am here next New Year I will definitely make the effort to watch them again. Sydney spent $5m on the display and the dedicated team of firework designers spent 15 months planning the dazzling show that lit up the night sky.

Then I was invited to join my friends on their yacht for a weekend of sailing up and around Pittwater. The public transport system in Sydney is fantastic and I was able to catch a train up to Cowan (about one hour north of Sydney city). Pam and Allan left their boat to walk up the hill from Jervis Bay to meet me. I just had the 45 minute walk back down through pretty Australian native bush peppered with Scribble bark and red bark gums, old man banksia etc always keeping a wary eye out for snakes lurking in the undergrowth.

The time on the water was again divine as we explored inlets by dinghy and yacht. The water in much of this part of the inlet was very deep even a couple of meters from the edge. Its a lovely part of the country and I feel fortunate to have been able to cruise around awhile.

Then it was back to work awhile.....

I'm reading..... The Kite Runner - it's a gripping novel set in Afghanistan.

I'm loving.....being able to experience the stupendous Sydney fireworks display.

I'm missing......the quiet. Being in the native bush around the jugged headland and out on the water was a very welcome retreat from the noisy city.

Favourite meal......a divine Xmas dinner planned, cooked and beautifully presented by my very organised and talented sister. On Boxing Day a special meal on the deck at Riva, St Kilda marina. Fantastic food and amazing location.

Chance encounter.....as part of the Sydney Festival, 30 old pianos have been left in strategic places. The idea is that they are for anyone who wants to play a tune or two. I've caught a couple of these impromptu performances. Such a great idea. http://www.streetpianos.com.au/.

Best Coffee....... despite trying lots more, sadly I still can't report any more great spots. But....I was given a fantastic calendar. It's got old fashioned photos and witty coffee balloons. The January one is "CAFFEINE is a drug. Deal with it you're a junkie". Another says "If it's not caffeinated, what's the damn point"? I love it! I have put a photo I captured in Melbourne - I love the saying but the coffee was ??????

Weekend Treats

2008-11-07T20:25:00.000-08:00

Weekend Treats

I've been having a great ole time exploring. I went down to Wollongong for one weekend, Melbourne for another and last weekend walked the Bronte to Bondi Beach stretch again.

The train to Wollongong takes about one half hours - just enough time to leave the city behind and dream about visiting a new place by the sea. I had a beaut time catching up with Mum and Dad and other relatives. Mum had been there for 3 nights already so she had a favourite cafe and it quickly became my "fav" too. The coffee was excellent; the food a tasty mix of Greek and Australian. We were spoilt for cafe choice in this vibrant seaside community.

Back in Sydney I went to see My Fair Lady. Ooh what a treat. We had really great seats and the show was as foot tappingly wonderful as ever. I first saw it as a child and it was lovely to become re-acquainted with it. This production was very professional and fast moving with fantastically beautiful costuming.

Last weekend it was Melbourne's turn and of course the main reason for being in town was to see the netball....but I've already written about that.

They take the arts and coffee very seriously in this sophisticated city. Fantastic sculptures of all sorts are dotted around the walk ways and parks. As it was close to Melbourne Cup time, I was interested to see the magnificently crafted hats in the shops. They were noticeable in cafes too as women sat to rest awhile, their meticulous white hat boxes taking pride of place on the table top. I was not game enough to ask for a peep but it was ever so tempting!

Where to take my coffee stops was a constant challenge because there are many to choose from and I didn't want to waste a break in a sub-standard cafe. My sister introduced me to one. I am glad she accompanied me to My-ko cafe which is in a little back street off Bourke and close to King Street. They are very proud to serve fair trade coffee. My cappuccino was lovely with sweet notes on the palate. The hosts are very friendly and I loved the booth style table seating.

My other coffee find was Brother Baba Budan at 359 Little Bourke Street http://www.brotherbababudan.com.au/. Coffee IS their business. The crema on my long black looked (and was) thick and caramelly. The coffee was rich with complex flavours alighting my taste buds. Although the coffee was the highlight, being in the cafe itself was not an overly pleasant experience because it was too crowded. I was extremely impressed to note though, that when the barista changed, she brewed a "taster" for the manager to critique.

Then last weekend I was again on the Bronte to Bondi Beach walk to see the annual Sculpture by the Sea exhibition. What a joy! Such wonderful creativity presented in harmony with the cliff faces, parks, sea and rock-scape. I loved it. This is its twelfth year anniversary and it's on for about three weekends so if you're planning a trip to Sydney around this time next year, I would definitely recommend trying to combine it with this exhibition. Pam and Allan and I finished off (as you do) with a long lunch at Bondi Beach. What a great way to finish a superb day.

It's an interesting life and I haven't even had time to tell you about the course I am doing in Aborigine Culture. It is confronting; it's fascinating; it's extremely interesting.....maybe another time......

I'm missing........good bread. I can't find any - even the Baker's delight is different.

I'm loving........how close I am to everything here at my wee little place in Bondi Junction.

The newspapers are full of..........various scandals, news about how broke the NSW Government is and - last week the Melbourne Cup (from days and days before the event), the US elections etc

I'm surprised.........how much attention is given to the execution and comment around and about regarding the Bali bombers....I find it quite, quite offensive.

I'm reading..........Nothing!!!

Photos: My-Ko coffee
Images from Sculpture by the Sea

Airport Pet Hates

2008-11-01T00:40:00.000-07:00

Airport Pet Peeves

I love travelling....but there are some things that remain constant irritants and "life as a flash packer" would be even better if airlines and those in charge of airports accommodated our needs a little more. Here are some of of the things that irritate me as I journey around the world:

1. Cafes where you order food and drinks but have to carry it all to the table yourself. Hey guys - think about this - we are travelling and that means extra hand baggage which also means it is much more difficult for us to conduct this juggling act. It's especially challenging for single travellers because its impossible to safely take a table and leave a few things then go up to the counter to make the food/drink decisions. If you forget something crucial to make the meal an enjoyable experience (like cutlery/salt, sugar etc) - retrieving it is damn near impossible if you travel alone - it's often not worth the hassle!

2. Queues. Queues to check in, queues to get through security, queues to get on the plane and then repeat it again to get off.

3. Small seats. AND its even worse if an overweight person sits beside you. Or, someone hogs the limited space - like chaps spreading legs widely - or those who take over the arm rest.

4. Automatic check-in. Actually I LOVE them when I don't have luggage. But as soon as I have luggage it warrants a listing in my pet peeves because it's another transaction I have to juggle and get in a queue to "bag drop" - if only it was just a bag drop. There HAS to be an easier way to do this.

5. Insufficient leg room. My knees are frequently jammed against the seat in front of me (OK ...OK, I am a coach/economy traveller!). Then with my knees touching the back of the seat, the passenger in front of me reclines their seat and crunches my tender kneecaps. Ouch!

6. Trays being left too long after the meal has finished.

7. The price of airport food and drinks. What is is about airports that they must charge us 20-50% more? Grrrrr.

8. When everyone is settled and the plane is ready to go (on time) but it can't leave because some inconsiderate passenger decided their time is more important and stayed too long in the duty free shops or bar. MAJOR irritation.

9. Small toilet cubicles. Travellers need a little more space. They also NEED hooks on the door.

I'm sure you will have your own list. If you want to...let me know - it's easy to leave a comment on my site and I will add your "pet peeve" to the list. You never know we might get a ground swell of "issues" and get some change......

What a Result....

2008-10-29T12:21:00.000-07:00

What a result…..

Netball tests between NZ and Australia are legendary. The Ozzies are the world champions, as they took the title off us during the last world championships in Auckland. When you look at the head to head statistics between the two teams Australian wins far outnumber ours. They have won 53 past encounters and NZ 36.

But….for this game we triumphed (46 to 41) and I was there in Melbourne to watch it! Just look at that scoreboard. It was great. During the first quarter, it was definitely their game to win as they snaffled the ball with outstanding skill, keeping us scoreless for much of the first quarter. In fact for the first ten minutes they restricted us to just 3 goals. The crowd crowed, I was in shock. I was wondering if "my girls had come to play?"

But, staunch as ever, Coach Ruth Aitken made some changes and one of those was to bring Lianna Barret-Chase on at WA for her first cap. She was superb and strong. It’s very exciting to see a new cap come on and immediately stamp her mark on the game. She will be a huge force to be reckoned with once she fine tunes feeding the ball into the circle.

Several of Melbourne's superb sporting facilities are within easy walking distance of the city centre and I had a lovely stroll along the Yarra to reach the Hisense Arena. Being surrounded by cheering and booing (when the umpire decisions went against their team) was an interesting experience but in the main it was all very good natured and a slightly subdued crowd filed out of the arena.

Like all games between these two teams – netball was the winner. That we won while I was there to watch was sweet. After strolling back along the river, I just had to stop awhile and treat myself to champagne and a nice dinner at a restaurant beside the river.

I'm missing.......good after match coverage in the newspapers. I did find a couple of articles this time but it was just the comments of the Australian captain and coach. While these are great there was no independent match analysis. Actually there was nothing before the match either.

I'm loving........Catching up with family over here.

I was disappointed.............They wouldn't allow photographs in the arena so sorry, no shots of the game or the girls. But one of my bag!

Next.........I've been away the last two weekends so I will do an article on that. Both weekends where great. This weekend I'm going on the Bronte to Bondi Beach walk again to see the annual sculpture display. Ooh and I have a list of pet airport peeves.....Now that's worth waiting for.... and I am sure you will want to add your own pet peeves.

Is Age Just a Number on a Piece of Paper?

2008-10-05T23:14:00.000-07:00

Is Age Just a Number of a Piece of Paper?

The other morning as I reclined back in bed with a steaming cup of tea, I let my thoughts wander freely.

I was thinking about age and about how, like many boomers, I really don't feel my age.

Earlier in the year when I was in Asia, I mixed with people a few decades my junior and the communication was seamless so unless I am confronted with age, I don't think about it much. In fact, I'm of the view that it's more about attitude than a number. Only the mirror tells me otherwise....and occasionally the attitude or comments of others.

The day was inclement and still in my philosophical space I wandered down the road to see the hyped movie of the moment "The Duchess". When I finally reached the front of the queue I was amazed to be charged $12.50 for the ticket. It seemed cheap but since this was the first movie I've seen since arriving in Sydney, I had no benchmark and accepted the price. I took my seat and for some reason I looked at the ticket and was shocked.....it was for a senior citizen! Oh my did that slash through my philosophical "I don't feel my age" moment of earlier. As an aside, does Kiera Knightley have only one expressions for pain or humiliation (of which there were many opportunities) - that of someone about to throw up! It was quite off-putting.

This past weekend I had another first for this trip - the walk from Bronte to Bondi Beach. Before going to Bronte I stopped by the old Victorian Cemetery at Waverley. It was there I spotted the magnificent marble monument of Alexander MacKenzie who was tragically killed by a stagecoach in 1884. He was just 54 years of age. He has a marvellous resting place.

Just below the cemetery is Bronte Beach; a cafe lover's haven where I had my choice of ten or so cafes. I didn't notice the name of the one I'd selected until after ordering - The Bogey-Hole Cafe. Is this a reference to golf or something altogether too disgusting to think about when waiting for food?

Back on the track, the very pretty walk hugs the coastline and dips in and out of alluring beaches. Interesting rock features abound. On a previous visit I walked from Coogee to Bondi Beach with my friend Ross. We thoroughly enjoyed it. It was hot that day and unfortunately we were under time pressure so couldn't stop for long anywhere. This time though I was able to take as long as I liked.

So, after sustenance at Bronte, the Tamarama Beach Cafe beckoned me. Tamarama Beach has been nicknamed Glamourama because of the beautiful people who frequent it but this day they were obviously enjoying a champagne breakfast elsewhere. This pocket sized beach has a couple of volleyball courts marked out and some fit enthusiastic foursomes played competitively.

As I sat there on the edge of the beach, relishing my excellent long black and enjoying the spectacle before me, I contemplated the world yet again. I felt no desire to swap places with the energetic foursomes. Would my feelings about swapping, I mused, be any different a few decades or so earlier....during the time I sauntered around in short short skirts? ....I doubt it. I like this stage of my life.

I'm enjoying.......exploring new places. I've been getting off the bus a few stops before the Uni and wandering around Randwick.

Taste sensation.........gorgeous rock melon.

I'm reading what book?.......A Parrot in the Pepper Tree by Chris Stewart. He's the author of Driving over Lemons which is a best seller about setting up an organic farmlet in Spain. It's great.

I'm surprised........over a news report stating Australian's have about 50-60% of their wealth in superannuation. Oh my...wouldn't kiwis love to be in that position?

Very special.......one of the lovely ladies at work gave me a CD the other day. It's Gunyah by John Williamson. She gave it to me because of the song about Emu's and Kiwi's. The lyrics go something like "the Emu's and the Kiwis stick together like glue - when tempers fray on a summers night if you pick on one you pick on two....the Kiwi's and the Emu". It's lovely and all the more special because Maria gave it to me.

The Plan Continues - Sydney

2008-09-27T20:51:00.000-07:00

The Plan Continues – Sydney

I’ve been here in Sydney for about six weeks now and loving it. Of course living in Bondi is such a cliché for a kiwi but it’s fantastic for me as I am a few minutes away from the massive Westfield shopping centre, quick access to beaches (Bronte and Bondi) and a short bus ride to work. The city is just ten minutes away by train.

I hear a little talk of a recession and tough times but on the weekend the Mall is jam packed with people. Just before opening time at 10am people are standing around waiting to get in. The people buying at Harvey Norman’s or Dick Smith’s don’t seem to think there is a problem – and the stores are always full.

I’m enjoying my job at the University too. I’m writing and getting paid for it! It’s extremely interesting work too. Of course me being me, I completely altered the content, look and feel of their policies so it was a nail biting time while I waited to see their reaction to the first few. Thankfully they really like my approach. Even so, I must say that after nine months of such delicious freedom it has been rather challenging for me to work an eight hour day.

That said, I really don’t think I could have written a better script for myself! Oh…perhaps if I was able to report that I was sailing regularly in these beautiful waters around here that would be an even better outcome. That remains elusive so it’s obviously not my time to be out on the water.

What is definitely panning out for me though is leaving a regular job to replace it with something much more elastic and tenuous. I like the “possibility” that comes with this type of life. Even though I was extremely scared at the time, I am so glad I took this punt and that it is working out for me right now.

I’ve had many visitors too and it’s been great to spend some time with them in this vibrant city.

Last weekend Suzanne was over and so we took a ferry trip. She owns a leather handbag manufacturing company and is starting a blog about a wandering bag so I helped out by holding it up in odd places to capture some photos for her to use. The people around us thought we were crazy but we had fun.

I loved the bag so much that I bought it off her and now it will have different adventures! It’s one of those perfect bags with special spaces for everything I need. Once, after deciding I was carrying around too much "stuff", I bought a small handbag. The theory being I would just ration what I carried around with me. It didn't work for me! I frequently had to leave the zip open or carry important things in my hand. I was so relieved once I realised my "small handbag experience" wasn't working and I could be true to myself with a larger version. My new bag is large and it kinda reminds me of my old schoolbag - except this is a beautiful and very pleasing colour - one that will complement most of my clothes. Here’s Suzanne's website featuring some other bags - www.konev.co.nz.

My plan is to work here until March or April next year then pick up where I left off and travel to Eastern Europe for a few months and then repeat the work/travel cycle. I am keen to continue doing this for as long as I can as I have many more places I want to explore. It’s a beaut existence.

I’m loving…..Living the dream. It’s wonderful that I have been able to arrive in a country and have my skills highly valued, and so very quickly.

I’m reading…...Lonely Planet Eastern Europe book to research the next travel segment.

Taste sensation……Yummmmm….where do I start? Raisin toast, cherry tarts, eating divine cherries and strawberries (in September!); anything from the roast nut stands. Add to this list Greek style fetta and yoghurt and Portuguese tarts (custard nestled in a light crispy filo style pastry). Of course all of the “bad” things are taken in moderation!

Good restaurant…..The Bondi Social Club – very well presented tapas style food. If you get a terrace table the view over the beach is excellent. The toilets are not recommended though!

Best Coffee……A little erratic but coffee from one of the Uni’s cafes is pretty good. The coffees quite good just down the road from me at the Curious Cat – yes complete with a cat that pays rent for the best and sunniest spot.

I’m missing……the Friday afternoon drinks and nibbles after work. Hey…here we even get to buy our own supplies of tea and coffee so as you can imagine I will NEVER be offered a glass of wine to finish up a week. Besides…I think it’s probably not allowed……I must check (or write) a policy!
Speaking of wine I am also missing not being able to buy it at the supermarket. Buying it at a bottle shop almost feels like a criminal activity.

In the newspapers…..heaps on politics. When Sarah Palin was announced as McCain’s running mate there was page after page after page on them. There’s been lots of upheaval here in state and federal politics and so that dominates at the moment.

I’m disappointed…….(extremely) to see that even when the Australian netball team won against NZ that they rated a few centimeters in the papers. When there was some big jock sports awards the wife’s/partners of the jocks got huge coverage – for their dresses, legs and cleavage!

I’m extremely excited….to be going to Melbourne in a couple of weeks time to see a NZ/Australia netball match. Bring it on!!!

Don't Blink or You Won't Keep Up!

2008-08-11T23:26:00.000-07:00

Phew!!! I'm back on the road and in Sydney, Australia and what a week I've just had.

I have a J.O.B.! Within three days of being here I was offered and accepted a position at the prestigous University of New South Wales. I will be using my interviewing, training and writing skills as a Policy Writer. I begin tomorrow.

Frankly, I was amazed to find work so easily (and it may have been a fluke that this position was available just when I was ready), because although my qualifications and experience are excellent, it is a general background. I thought this lack of specialisation would count against me. Not so. The hardest question they asked me was "give me a couple of titles of positions you would like". "Gosh...I don't know" I would say...."I can do this or this or this but to give them titles is not possible". Without fail they accepted that and went into bat for me. Anyway...I now have this six month contract and am looking forward to the challenge of doing something new. I thrive on this change.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Balmain area but had to move because of the difficulty in getting to and from the University. It's an eclectic mix of cafes, boutique shops and services housed in picturesque old buildings. It flows down to the water. Some other time I'd like to stay awhile there.

Instead, I've taken a lease on a place in Bondi Junction. Its incredibly central and reasonably close to the University. But....the downside of having a base for the next six months is I'm nesting. Horrors! I've even purchased cushions! So....just after divesting myself of all possessions unable to be squeezed into a suitcase, I'm buying again. Top of the list was beautiful sheets and a colorful duvet cover.

I'm loving.......being back on the road again. But....travelling and simply observing is very different to travelling and working.

I'm missing.....Olympic coverage with a NZ bias. Here its Australia, Australia and more Australia. Not that I think that's unreasonable due to the size of their team but something about other countries would be nice.

Best coffee......A few places in Balmain. The Bakehouse Cafe (the name belies a quasi sophisticated place) with great food and excellent coffee. Down the road Bertoni always had a queue so before I left went there and I cannot understand the fuss. Very average coffee.

I'm surprised.....absolutely gob smacked actually at how quickly I've scored a good job and accommodation. I must have several angels looking after me.

The papers and the media here are.....full of the Olympics and the Sonny Bill Williams episode.

Next I'll let you know how I cope with being a working woman after eight months of leisure.

Hanoi Scam Alert

2008-06-28T16:33:00.000-07:00

Scam Alert

I did a very brave thing this morning. Or, perhaps, it was a very stupid thing as my actions had me quaking after several minutes.

But first, a little background. Yesterday I took a metered taxi, (which is the recommended way to travel to avoid rip-offs), from the Old Quarter in Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. I know this area reasonably well now and he seemed to take a fairly direct route. However, when we stopped and he told me the cost of the trip it was considerably higher than I thought it should have been. Nonetheless I shelled out the money. He demanded a tip out of the change too.

Once I left the cab, I realized that I had been ripped off! In fact I’d paid 6 times what I should have and I couldn’t blame anyone but myself for not recognizing the scam and challenging the scumbag. I was so cross with myself.

Then, this morning I was sitting in Gloria Jean’s (the best place I’ve found around here for coffee) and I looked through the window to see the likely lad.

I quickly gathered my things and went outside and confronted him. What was I thinking?

I told him he’d taken me for a ride (figuratively and literally) the previous day and he had ripped me off. I asked him for my money back. Of course, he suddenly had difficulty understanding English when the previous day his command had been excellent. He refused to refund me saying that he had no money. I didn’t expect to see the money anyway, I just wanted to make a point.

I demanded to see his taxi card and his drivers license. He refused. Meantime, many people gathered around us to see what the fracas was all about. I stood my ground and kept asking to see his documents. When he shook his head, I said “OK, I just wait here” and I folded my arms across my chest and stood my ground. I was hoping the police would come by.

After awhile in this stand off position, he wandered down the road. I don’t know what I planned, but I followed him, my legs still shaking. He leaned into the car window of one of his taxi driver mates and got into the passenger seat and he was driven off.

However, before he disappeared I got a reasonably good photo of him. I also snapped the sign written car and the number plate of the taxi he was in. I tried calling this number but no luck – they didn’t understand English. I also tried to enlist the people in reception at my hotel but they wouldn’t help.

However, I have registered my complaint with the Vietnam Tourist Authority and they have his photo and that of the signwritten car.

That’s about as much as I can do. I feel vindicated by taking this action. Hopefully they will take some action and use this photo to rid him from the tourist industry. Cities like Hanoi generating massive revenue from tourism don’t need this type of scam.

I share my story with other travelers and with you to be alert when traveling by taxi in this city. Every person I talk to has a taxi scam tale to tell including meters suddenly leaping in number of kilometers traveled, agreed fares increasing markedly etc. It’s not good.

What a Way to Have a Face Peel

2008-06-28T16:16:00.000-07:00

What A Way to Have a Face Peel…..

After tripping and falling, my face looked like I’d gone 15 rounds with Mike Tyson.

I saw a great many doctors in five different hospitals – four in Vietnam and one in New Zealand. After receiving a couple of rather gloomy predictions (saying I’d need plastic surgery in two/three places on my face) meant I wasn’t all that optimistic of making such a great recovery. But I have! In fact, in the last week friends have said “what’s all the fuss been about?”

Sure I still have a couple of scars but I think that my healing is nothing short of miraculous. Most of my face had abrasions - what a way to have a face peel! Although there is still some question about whether I’ll need surgery on my nose, a decision on that will be made later.

I was flown home (thank goodness for excellent insurance cover) for check-ups and that has been good. I’ve been able to heal and relax at home which has been all good and I am now very well rested.

Back in Hoi An I was surrounded by caring people – locals and a NZ nurse followed the bikes to the hospital and were there to help and comfort me. The chap from reception at the hotel also came to the hospital and wouldn’t leave my side. They were all simply wonderful.

Getting to the hospital was a mini adventure in itself. I was knocked unconscious during the fall but when I came to I remember being put on the back of a motor bike. When I realized they had a second bike lined up beside me I rapidly regained my focus (sure!). They had one bike for my bottom and one for my feet. When I realised the plan to take me on two bikes I shouted at them (they didn't deserve that and I hope they forgive my reaction)! Then I blacked out again and the next thing I remember was being sandwiched between to chaps on the back of ONE bike. I think I fainted again because when I became conscious I was in a hospital bed. I have no idea who those men were but I am so very grateful to them and to the other locals who rallied around me. Of course there is much more to tell but I don’t want to bore you with it all.

My adventure is not over. In fact I am even more keen to get back on the road than I was before (if that’s possible). At this stage I am not sure where or when I’ll go. Meantime I’ve gone from temperatures in the high 30’s to, at times, single digits back here. But with these cooler temperatures I’m loving the freshness in the air.

The snow on the Mt Ruapehu, south of Taupo, where I’m based right now, looks absolutely sublime and it will be a bumper ski season for both the north and south islands. Great for skiers and boarders. Check it out on http://www.snowreport.co.nz. .

I’m surprised…..at how exhausted I really was after my trials and I began to relax at home. I’m also surprised at how much damage a wee trip can do. It really was a good decision to come back for awhile.

Food sensation……there’s a lot of competition for this spot actually but the overall winner would have to be beetroot – eaten in sandwiches, with salads…in fact just about everything…..whole, sliced, grated……Yum.

Best coffee….where do I start? These are all fantastic. At Tauranga and the Mount – Gana, Deck Chair, SideWalk and Mediterrano. In Rotorua – Capers. In Taupo Body Fuel is my favourite and I grace that café with my presence everyday. Fantastic.

I’m loving…..being around family and friends. I’m also loving being able to walk down the street unimpeded by stuff all over the foot path and being able to cross the road easily. Oh…and I’m loving driving again. After several months of being a passenger it’s great to be behind the wheel again.

Best sight……Flying into Auckland. As usual the countryside looked so green and being bounded by a couple of harbours it was fantastic to look down on the water.

I’m excited……that a parcel I posted home from Laos arrived safely yesterday. It was so exciting to be here to unwrap it and distribute the gifts myself. I’d forgotten what I’d packed in the box so it was all a big surprise!

Questions I’m most asked…….What was the best place you visited? Actually I change my mind about that – it could be Luang Prabang, Sapa, Halong Bay, Ninh Binh or Siem Reap – but not necessarily in that order. What did you miss most? Again difficult – food would be beetroot and cheese, other things – ease of communication in English.

I’m reading…..more Lonely Planet guides…..

Photos..... Auckland from the top of Rangitoto, a koru (the koru unfurl to become ponga fronds) and Tawharanui - a fabulous reserve (and one of my favourite places) north of Auckland.

Patchwork Face

2008-05-18T03:39:00.000-07:00

Patchwork Face

I was in Hoi An and after a couple of lovely days in this fabulous town of tailors (which I made excellent use of too), I tripped and fell. I have multiple facial abrasions, black eye, stitches in a few places and a broken nose.
For a variety of reasons it was decided I should be sent via air ambulance from Hoi An to Saigon - or Ho Chi Minh City for further treatment and a cat scan. It was all very dramatic. Thankfully the scans shown no skull fracture.
I am spending the majority of my time in a hotel close to the very good clinic where I need to go each day for dressings and to be checked.
I'm doing OK. My wounds are healing well and although I am still extremely tired, swollen and must rest, my spirits are excellent.
I have many articles I'd written days (or should that be weeks ago) ready for a little further polish before adding them to my website and depending upon the energy levels I may be able to put them on. They are starting to mount up actually - Stunning Halong Bay, Surprising Ninh Binh, Hue - which would have to be the hassle capital of Vietnam and of course laid back Hoi An where I've left behind clothes at a couple of tailors.
I am very disappointed that my time there was shortened as I planned to stay there for several more days. And I missed seeing the ancient ruins of the Kingdom of Champa - My Son which is very disappointing.

As the articles are nearly ready, I might find the energy to post some......maybe......Keep looking.

Photo: the plane I was taken on from Danang to Saigon (Just two crew, two medical staff and me strapped in a stretcher (and hooked up to oxygen) on the floor!

More Photos From Bac Ha

2008-05-18T03:23:00.000-07:00

This was such an amazing market I decided to add a few more photos. Hope you like them.

1. Worker in cornfield

2. Buying wool

3. The yolks and tops waiting for buyers.

Going Back in Time - The Bac Ha Markets

2008-05-11T19:18:00.000-07:00

A Trip Back in Time – the Bac Ha Market
North West Vietnam

The three hour mini bus trip from Sapa to the Bac Ha markets was full of drama. We experienced an impasse between a truck and our vehicle on a one way bridge; later our driver called the police to sort out a problem. These and other such challenges are not unusual on these busy narrow roads in northern Vietnam. Sometimes the muddy roads had deep pot holes forcing our driver to find another way to pass or risk getting stuck. As in many of my journeys, the road was windy, narrow, there were perilously steep drops to the valleys way below us. There were no barriers to protect a wayward vehicle and its passengers which added to the drama.

Horns are used a lot in Vietnam and our driver pressed his so frequently you would think he was paid on a per use basis. But this horn wasn’t the kind to press for a sharp one off “parp” sound to alert someone or something. Our horn went on and on for several seconds playing an annoying little tune. After awhile, we could almost predict when he would use the noise machine; to chase pedestrians, goats, water buffalo, chickens, pigs, push bikes, horse and carts or motor cyclists out of the way. It was also frequently used as we approached a blind corner. As a mini bus, we seemed to command greater rights to the roads over almost anything else – except of course a bigger bus. I often wondered how the Vietnamese in these rural villages feel about the “flash” tourists screaming through their villages ordering them, with noise, to get out of our way. It doesn’t rest easily with me.

Part way through our journey we reach a one lane bridge which was controlled by lights. When the lights turned green it was our turn to cross and we edged forward but when we were about two thirds of the way across we were forced to a standstill by a truck coming the opposite way. The truck driver tried to force his way through. Duh! There was no way through and so for many minutes there was an impasse as each driver shouted and waved frantically at the other to back up. It was so funny to watch. After some time, our driver began to reverse but because we had the right of way there were many vehicles backed up behind us all waiting for a solution. After several minutes the bridge guard wandered down and ordered the truck driver to back up. However, even that wasn’t easy. I couldn’t watch as I swear this was the first time he had backed his truck as in his retreat he wove left then right rather haphazardly and even scraped the side of the grey bridge. I reckon he was either a novice driver or he’d been consuming too much of the highland tribes moonshine.

About three hours after leaving Sapa we arrived at Bac Ha and the markets. What a bright busy, bustling sight!

The women here dress in traditional native clothing and this is not just for show day as they wear this gear when working in the fields. Their headgear too is magnificent.

The most visible in and around the market because of their colourful dress are the Flower H’mong, so named because their clothing looks like a flower. Even the long sleeves on their tops are boldly hand embroidered. Around the neck they wear a wide yolk which too is intricately patterned in many hues. Sometimes the yolks, which are about 40cm in width, have extra trimmings added to the edge or additional baubles. Their widely gathered, full circle skirts, again multi coloured are embroidered with floral motifs and they swish as they walk. They are a wonder to see. Despite the thick pervading mud underfoot I noticed that they are able to keep the bottom clean and dry which is more than I managed, even though I rolled up my trousers.

Being there is like taking a huge leap back in time. This is a market for the locals but it has evolved some (but not a lot) to cater for the tourists. However locals still outnumber tourists and many of the stalls exist specifically for them. This is a rural economy and so there are hoe heads for sale, water buffalo, cows, dogs, small horses along with food supplies and much more.

My eyes swivel this way that trying to imprint the images on my mind. This was sensory overload of the kind I have rarely experienced! After awhile I calmed down because no matter where I looked there was a feast of richly coloured and varied sights to take in. The dress, noise, tantalizing aromas of food being cooked, locals weighing up purchasing decisions for the weeks ahead, watching the process of them bargaining and then loading up their horses or wagons for the trip back home are all alluring sights, sounds and smells.

There are many piles of tobacco for sale in differing shades of brown and tan. Adjacent to these mounds rest large bamboo pipes which are stained charcoal through much use. They are about a metre long and prospective buyers squat or sit in front of the tobacco to try before they buy.

The main form of transportation here is foot, horse, and horse and cart. I saw many horses laden ready for the sometimes long trip back home. Sometimes these hill tribe ethnic minorities walk for days to get here.

Apparently moonshine is available at this market. The locals have a reputation for the manufacture and supply of alcoholic home brews which they make from rice, cassava and corn. There’s an entire area set aside for the sale but I didn’t come across it. Later I heard that often, on the trip back home, the local women walk ahead leading a horse with their husband slumped sideways over the beast!

It was noisy too as neighbours catch up with the local gossip. Courtships were developing too between teenagers creating its own buzz and tension. Excited youngsters proudly wearing their finery raced around excitedly in twos, or groups of three or more to get the mountain equivalent of a McDonald’s treat – a raw cucumber, a stick of sugar cane or a home made ice-cream.

Although serious business is conducted here, there are also products available for tourists. Numerous tables display scarves, hats, bags, hand worked strips of cloth in varying widths (which they use as trim or decoration), wool, intricate linen table wear, silver jewelry and a variety of other souvenirs.

I added a few more scarves to my already huge collection and then I bargained for a bag to put it all in. It cost me $3 and is intricately patterned by machine. Mind you, the zip failed before I left the market but I don’t mind because I plan to turn into a cushion cover when I reach the tailoring capital of Vietnam, Hoi An later in my trip through Vietnam.

After time in this stunning market we were taken back to Lao Cai and dropped at a hotel/restaurant to dine to wait for the train back to Hanoi. But before that we have yet another altercation.

On a high narrow hill pass, we were forced to stop for some road works when a scooter driver tried to squeeze past but in doing so he scraped the side of our bus. Our driver was angry when the scooter driver refused to stop. In fact, as he made his escape, he drove right under the arm of a moving road working vehicle. Our driver got out and began to run after him shouting at the other stationary vehicles drivers to help him to stop the escapee. No luck, he’s off.

However, we were given rights to jump the waiting queue and our driver traveled far too fast down the steep road but the offender was on a nimble machine and he’s out of sight. Meanwhile cell phones became red hot as numerous calls were made, including some by our driver as he juggled the phone with negotiating the difficult terrain!

After about half an hour we saw several dozen Vietnamese gathered at a T junction and to my surprise they had apprehended the young offender. Our driver got out and arguments ensued, a few punches thrown – one from our driver - and there was much gesturing. We were told that the police had been called and there’ll be a wait which does not please us at all.

We waited and waited and waited. Finally, everyone was ordered back into the van and we drove off at speed unaware of any solution having been reached and we certainly hadn’t seen the police. We proceed several kilometers further, then slowed down at a small garage. The driver opened the window and threw out the offending drivers keys which he’d obviously confiscated. Retribution Vietnamese style! Honour had been restored.

When we waiting at the T junction I took the opportunity to stretch my legs and inspect the damage. A polish would have fixed it!

Thankfully there were no more dramas on the rest of the trip and we got back to Lao Cai with hours still to wait for the train.

I was amazed to find that I could get a shower in Lao Cai for $1. In the privacy of the room, I repacked my already overloaded back pack (I also bought several things in Sapa) and waited for the long, long trip back to Hanoi. This time I didn’t have such a convivial time with my bedfellows. I shared the cabin with an overly chatty Dutchman (who had also visited NZ and reminisces but this time I am too darned tired to feel homesick) and a Vietnamese couple with whom we have just nodding acquaintance.

However, it’s been an extremely long day and I am ready for sleep which comes fitfully.

I notice that I had written in my diary that “I am blissfully happy after my day visiting yet another ethnic minority. This has been another highlight of my trip.” They are beginning to mount up now and I would be hard pressed to limit it to ten. However this day at the Bac Ha markets would be very near the top if not come in at first place.

I’ve decided to spend two more nights in Hanoi at the same hotel and then go up to Halong Bay which is on the coast in the north east. This time it will be an organized trip and I’ll let you know how it goes next time so keep on checking……

Trekking in the Mists of Sapa

2008-05-04T01:27:00.000-07:00

Trekking in the Mists
Trips from Sapa in North West Vietnam

After three months “on the road” and having sourced information and made a myriad of decisions myself, without reference or input from other people, it was very refreshing to sit down with Pete of the Sapa Rooms Boutique Hotel and have him make suggestions for how I could spend the time in the area.

It’s generally recommended that you take a tour up to Sapa and the majority of visitors I chatted to had done just that, but in my usual independent fashion I didn’t want to do that. I found that it wasn’t difficult to travel independently but I suspect that having Pete provide suggestions and organize a guide made it easier.

On my first full day the weather didn’t look at all promising due to persistent rain but the second day even though the mist was annoying and obscured the mountains, the rain held off. I left Sapa on the back of Huong’s motor cycle wearing several layers of clothing including a waterproof coat and pants which was essential because even in the mist I got wet. However, my young guide didn’t even have a jacket and I felt rather sorry for him as we raced through the countryside.

As we descended into the valley we left the mist above us but it hung around the tops of the mountains. On arrival in the village we were greeted by several H’mong women who stopped to chat and then put the heavy word on me to buy – and buy from each of the seven! They decided to follow me and so we looked like a bright celebratory procession as we traipsed, often single file, through their village and up the rise to the place where traditional medicines, made from local plants, are boiled in massive vats until they reduce to form a concentrate.

When we were nearly there, I could hear the cries of a young baby. It was a four week old swaddled and intricately strapped to his mothers back. When we stopped she unwrapped him and put him to the breast to suckle. The boys here are differentiated from the girls by the number of colours in their hats. The hats the children wear are very pretty and have good luck metal (like coins) sewn into the cloth. They believe that it is bad luck for anyone to touch the head of a child and as a westerner I found it rather difficult to refrain from patting them.

Here girls can marry at 18 and boys at 20. I was informed that the girls cannot marry until they have learnt to sew well. “Why?” I asked in typical western naivety.
“We must be able to sew to make clothes for ourselves and our family” was the prompt reply. With that short statement, I am quickly taken back in time; way back.

The men work hard and are rather stoic as they wander the roads, their long black pants rolled up to create shorts. Their bodies are “nuggety” - short, compact with strong muscles and not an ounce of surplus fat.

But the women work even harder. Not only do they work in the fields when required, they cook, take care of the children, make the families clothes and embroider, sew and sell goods to tourists. To sell their goods might necessitate a walk of many miles into Sapa.

Part of their costume is a striking richly embroidered piece of cloth hanging from the waist down the back of their skirts to mid thigh and I was told that this takes a year to embroider with silk. They are very beautiful.

In this village, after the women marry their eyebrows and some hair back from the forehead is shaved and they don a bright red head dress making it very easy to tell the two groups apart.

At the end of our couple of hours together they all demanded I buy from them. I said I would have a look at everyone’s goods and then make a decision but I was NOT buying from each of them. I got the young village girl whose English was excellent to let them know my intentions. Well…..in hindsight looking at each persons goods was a mistake because it turned into a high pitched frenzy of “you must buy from me…I have a baby….you took my photo….I was your guide…..I followed you” etc etc. I was disturbed. They would be great in a rugby scrum and would come up with the ball every time.

In the end I bought something from each of them, but only after a couple of them followed me into the area where my lunch was being prepared and got cross with me. I was quite upset over the whole episode. Had I been in a group I think it may have helped because there would have been more people to share the purchasing load, provide a distraction or lend moral support.

The prices are so cheap it seems rather criminal to bargain, but again, it’s expected and respected and I didn’t spend very much money to get a big pile of goods to take home for myself and as presents. Like I needed more stuff! Actually I’ll have to send another parcel home because the “extras” are mounting up.

After lunch, my local guides have my money so they disappeared to focus on other tasks, or tourists, and Huong and I were able to wander through the countryside which I loved. It was very peaceful, and interesting to see how they cultivate the land and live in this rural countryside dominated by the task and business of growing rice. I saw few other tourists once in and around the villages.

The next day I decide to go by myself and walk down the winding road to Cat Cat Village. I suppose it took about an hour and was downhill all the way and very very pretty. I took the photo of the hut on the way down. At one stage the road veers left and after paying a 75cent entrance fee, I descend hundreds of steps through the village, terraced rice fields and water buffalo working. At the bottom there is a waterfall along with the inevitable stall sellers. Here I buy two hand embroidered cushion covers for about $8. Believe it or not, I know I’ve paid over the top but having embroidered myself, I know the time involved in working this pattern would take a great many hours and I wasn’t about to bargain too hard.

Thankfully there is a group of the ever present scooter drivers waiting at the bottom of the hill to transport lazy or tired trekkers back to the top and as I was in the first category, for $1 I engage one. My legs are very sore the next day from all the steps but I am happy to have had the opportunity to visit these villages and spend a little time amongst these proud hard working people.

The air is so very clean and clear up there and having come from some seriously polluted cities I feel great to have been breathing fresh air.

Listening to comments around Sapa, other tourists had similar hassles in the villages and were also disturbed. It is incredibly intense and I think it’s rather a pity because it mars an otherwise special experience. I’ve put a photograph of a “scrum” of villagers I saw in Sapa. A large group focused on a two of French women who were buying. It’s taken from the balcony outside my room at the hotel and looks back towards the local market.

On a trip to another village the next day, one older Black H'mong woman (called that because of their dress) walked beside me for over half an hour. I thought she was returning to her village. I should have wised up because whenever I stopped to take a photo, she stopped too. Once I had purchased something from her and I think I spent about 50c, she just turned around and went back up the hill into Sapa. I experienced that twice during different walks.

At night time I download my photos over a wine and one of the guides is interested in photography and so I encourage him to have a play with my camera.

On my last night a Singaporean mother and adult daughter pair are about to tuck into a Vietnamese Hot Pot and when they see the mountain of food in front of them ask if I have dined. I hadn’t and so they asked me to join them. I had a very pleasant evening sharing it with them. It’s a dish where diners cook a variety of meat and vegetables in a liquid and then drink the broth. It was very tasty and the company excellent. I felt blessed.

On my final day in Sapa, the train isn’t due to leave until 2115 and so I decide to do a day trip to another market which turns out to be one of the many highlights of my entire trip. I will write about that next time…….

I’m loving……wandering in the fresh air in the countryside. Oh and having long chats with another from downunder.

I’m missing……not much.

Taste sensation…….the hot pot. I’m sure the food at the hotel is tastier because Pete tried to source organic ingredients.

Bargain of the moment…….all the local handicrafts.

I’m surprised……at how much time I spend working out what I’m going to do in a place, where I will stay, how I will get to a place etc.

Photos: Dress shop Cat Cat style (notice the colours of everyday wear),

Home in the mist just out of Sapa on the way to Cat Cat Village, the hill tribe lady who followed me, houses on the way to Ta Phin village and the view approaching Cat Cat.

From the Mists of Sapa

2008-05-03T18:40:00.000-07:00

From the Mists of Sapa
North West of Vietnam

As I sit down to write this I am back in Hanoi playing written catch up because I have just had two of the most fascinating but diverse trips – one to Sapa with a side trip to Bac Ha and the second to Halong Bay.

They were both inspiring, but first a little about Sapa. The town is northwest of Hanoi and very close to the border of China. In fact where the train stops, Lao Cai, is about a 20 minute taxi ride to the border crossing and trains leave from here to go to Kunming in China. Sapa is still some 40 minutes away along a narrow winding road and we wend ever higher to reach approximately 1650 meters above sea level and the ever present mist.

By the time I arrived at my destination, The Sapa Rooms Boutique Hotel, (http://www.saparooms.com/) I was very tired. The overnight train trip is about 10 hours and I didn’t sleep well despite feeling very comfortable with the other people in the four berth cabin. I shared with a lovely young British man and a Canadian mother and 23 year old daughter who was well traveled. She had spent a year in NZ doing odd jobs and over a year in China teaching English. There is no such thing as segregating the sexes here! But they were all excellent company and we chatted for some time before lights out.
However, once I arrived at my hotel and was enthusiastically welcomed by Australian Pete and huge breakfast (included in the room rate) any thoughts of tiredness and homesickness banished to the dark recesses of my mind. I was keen to get out there and explore a little, but Sapa was cold…..mainly because of the altitude and heavy mist which obscured the great view from my room. I never did see the view, but I believe it was there.

Pete is almost evangelical about Sapa and after completing a couple of treks myself I could see why. He visited Sapa last year (I think but apologies and a correction is welcome Pete, if I have that wrong) and fell in love with the place. He was sick of the Sydney rat race, managing 120 staff in a computer company and even the great Sydney harbor view from his office couldn’t keep him in Australia. So he bought this run down hotel and is well on the way to transforming it. It’s an excellent place to stay.

The coldest months here are January and February but from March to May my guide book says the weather is often excellent. The prime time for visiting the region though is September to mid December plus the Festival of the Clouds which occurs during May – I just missed it thankfully because the hotels in the town were full.

Because of the cold, for the first time since Thailand, I was able to wear my jeans. Oh yeah! Although this will sound rather sick, I was so happy to be back in jeans. But even with several layers of clothing including a merino top and my great lightweight, all purpose Marmot windbreaker, I was still cold.

However, the friendliness of the local H’mong people who wander the streets in their multi colored and layered finery with huge smiles (see photo) helped to banish some of the cold I was feeling. Of course they were always trying to sell me something….anything…..they just wanted me to buy from them. Sometimes I would duck into a shop to try to evade them but no chance….they’d just wait outside the shop their lovely open faces peering in waiting. The shop owners who pay for their display space and other business overheads seem remarkably tolerant of these hill-tribe people wandering the streets garnering sales where they can.

Their English is quite good and they continually ask questions “where are you from….what is your name…..what is your age…..are you married….do you have children…….”? When they hear that I have two sons the younger girls get very excited and want to know their age. When I tell them, they ask if they can come to my home with me so that they can marry my lads!

During my first afternoon in Sapa I opt for a nap and instead sleep very deeply for several hours. After I woke, I wandered downstairs to the news that they had just made a roasted pumpkin and chicken soup which I order along with a fresh crunchy baguette and it was absolutely divine.

I love the art work around the hotel. Pete has engaged an artist to help him to make the space creative. He is making light shades from the local fabric, different tables, couches and a lot of pottery etc which is displayed in all nooks and crannies. I fell in love with a pottery head. The one I’ve shown in the photo was in my bedroom and the gorgeous flowers are grown locally. Later, when I returned to Hanoi I visited Tiep’s (the artists) studio to try to buy one to ship back to New Zealand but the few he had left weren’t suitable for me. I felt very disappointed.

While I am up at the hotel, they install a new reception top. It’s fascinating to see the local men working away with primitive gear as they install the hand made top. It is cut from a special tree from a village nearby.

For my second day I decided to take a guide and go to a village about 17kms from Sapa. This village has a reputation for wonderful hand embroidery and I really look forward to it. The day was extraordinary, on several levels, but more about that later.

I’m missing…..home. I got very homesick during the train trip because the 23 year old wanted to talk about the marvelous time she had in NZ and as she reminisced and enthused to the other two about our wonderful country her memory needed a little help about places and things and I too was taken on a mental trip back home.

Best coffee……none. Again!

Favourite food…..Pete’s pumpkin soup using his grandmother’s recipe. Yum. Yum.

Bargain of the moment…….just about anything in Sapa. I bought a small hand woven bag for about $3, a blouse for $5 etc

I’m loving….......the fresh air and quiet especially after the pollution and excessive noise in Hanoi.

What I’m reading….....another Nora Roberts – Blue Smoke. It’s escapism!

Travelers love……helpful and friendly hotel staff. It makes SUCH a difference to the enjoyment of a place and to getting the most out of your time there.

New Year the Luang Prabang Way

2008-04-20T23:29:00.000-07:00

It is very difficult to reconcile the way the normally polite, shy, relaxed Lao people transform into raving extroverted maniacs. But this dramatic change occurs during their New Year, in Luang Prabang at least.

Perhaps its because they're so reserved for 358 days of the year that they grasp hold of these few days to really let loose. They have fun and many visitors throw themselves into the festivities too.

This New Year period occurs in the middle of April and celebrates the sun moving from the zodiac sign of Pisces into Aries. Basically its about the old spirit departing and a new one arriving. For about seven days, they throw of water at people, obsensibly to cleanse the soul.

Kids, big and small trawl the streets or take up strategic corners and throw basins or buckets of water over people. Many people carry huge water guns, sometimes with reserve water tanks strapped onto their backs. Then they like to smear a white , black or red substance over people - or throw it at them (I never did find out what this was about). Walking the street, driving a car or riding a motor bike - all are fair targets! Once my scooter driver had to stop because white powder was thrown which covered the visor obscuring vision. It's madness.

Consequently people wander the streets soaking wet, smeared in a variety of colours and looking a complete wreck. Towards the end of each day, the young adults ride around town standing on the back of the trucks, music blaring dancing and cheering, sometimes sitting on bonnets and generally having a great time.

I hated it. To avoid the worst of it, I walked very early in the morning because the water bombing didn't begin until around 1000 or 1100. Anyway, this time was by far the coolest for wandering and very quiet. As the day advanced there was a greater chance of being drenched until it all stopped about 1800, only to begin the next day. Tiresome! And, this water bombing goes on for seven days the locals tell me.

But, outside of this New Year peiod, Luang Prabang (an old Lao royal capital) would be a fantastic place to spend time.

The township has no high rise which is a very refreshing change. It is an easy and pleasant place to just wander around. The town is surrounded by water and is like a peninsular with the Nam Khan River on one side of the "V" shape and the Mekong on the other. There is no shortage of special little bars, cafes and restaurants with water views. In the main street (no water views from here), many eating places are raised up three or four steps which is a nice elevation from which to watch the activities below.

The markets here are great too, especially the night market which is open from around 6pm until 11pm. The main street is closed to traffic and local women "set up shop" on the pavement and road laying out their home made (often) wares. The mountain women in particular are dressed beautifully. Their black hair swept up high on their head. They dress in a colourful wrap skirt and the most gorgeous linen (I think) crop top which is often in red or pink. The top has long sleeves and is trimmed in multi hued braid. They are a majestic sight. If only the tops they had for sale were also in these bright hues, I'd probably be loading up my suitcase! On second thoughts - perhaps it's just as well they are selling mainly muted colours for adults.

The workmanship is exquisite and the prices obsenely low. One of my favourite activities is sitting in a bar watching them set up. In true "rush rush - get everything done in a hurry" type of western mind set, I couldn't understand why it was taking them such a long time to unpack their bags of goods and lay them out on the mats. Then, after observing this slow, precise behaviour for a couple of nights I think I know why they patiently display their goods. Carefully unpacking and placing each item means that the movement or colour just might catch the eye of a passer-by and by doing that a possible sale!

Luang Prabang is another of those very special places. I saw lots of people holding umbrellas as the locals use them to shade themselves as they stroll and also while they ride around on their motor scooters. There are many temples here and many monks in bright orange robes stroll around the streets.

Although I said in my last post that I would probably stay longer here than orignally planned, to be honest, because of the water bombing, I couldn't wait to leave so booked an early flight out to Hanoi in Vietnam. Others on my plane had done the same. Having said that - I would definitely come back here, I'd just make sure it wasn't New Year.

Photos: Four this time - Monks, lamp shades, umbrellas, and the New Year celebrations

I'm missing..........all kinds of food from home - a plain sandwich with 5 grains, good coffee, meatloaf, a good steak - get the picture!

I'm reading.......Cuba and the Night by Pico Iyer. Its a novel, but reads more like a travel narrative as I felt as though I was in Cuba. I found it hard to put down as I reached through the pages to find out whether Lourdes managed to find a way to leave Socialist Cuba. A beguiling yarn.

I'm loving........having internet access in my room! Love it. Love it.

I'm surprised........to find that rugby is played in some schools. They are in need of resources - of course - old gear, help with administration, coaching etc. http://www.laorugby.com/.

Taste sensation.........Banana crepes - cooked and eaten al fresco.

Travelers like..........security locks on doors (not always a given here).

Noisy Hanoi

2008-04-20T04:47:00.000-07:00

Hello from another bustling, noisy, frenetic Asian city; Hanoi in northern Vietnam. I'm staying in the Old Quarter at the Gia Thinh Hotel http://www.sunshinehotel.com.vn/ and again I have managed to find a great "backpacker deal" but in a nice new boutique hotel where I have a rather lovely room with all the trimmings including in room internet using computers they supply.

It's a lot cooler here and I'm enjoying the respite from the heat.

I'm about two blocks back from the pretty Hoan Kiem Lake. The Old Quarter is a rabbit warren of tiny streets and alleys. In the 13th Century Hanoi had 13 guilds and each one established themselves in a different street. So there were whole streets making and selling things like headstones, another for silversmiths, scales, pipes, copper, herbal medicines etc.

Today some of that remains but tourist outlets seem to dominate with souvenir and art shops; food sellers, tour promoters etc. It's a visual feast and I love strolling and peeking into all the wee shops.

Today I happened across a street with shop after shop selling shoes, another carving and selling headstones. The other day I went along a whole street of vendors selling sweets, all laid out in baskets like the old supermarket "pick and mix" displays before we got all sanitised and put them behind plastic cages with handy pull down dispensers. But there's something I don't understand. All these sweet sellers appear to me to be displaying exactly the same goods, without product differentiation, how would a buyer decide who to buy from in a street of about two dozen sellers?

As I write this, I'm sitting in a small classy (read great service, huge shiny wine glasses) restaurant called Five watching the world go by as I sup a red wine and wait for the chef to cook my wild mushroom risotto.

This is theatre at its best; street theatre. I'm fascinated by the passing parade of cyclos (push bikes with a seat for passengers in front and covered by a wide umbrella). I'm especially interested in the body language of the cyclo passengers. Some people sit back and relax, others browse maps, perhaps following their journey. Some sit with their legs out straight and taut as if to brace themselves against an impending disaster. Others have knees together, ankles wide - kind of unsure whether to relax or not? I wonder what I do?

Of course, I've been ripped off by the cyclo drivers. It's a given really. It was my first ride and I was new in Hanoi. The streets in this area are extremely confusing. As usual, I was trying to go to a particular cafe in the hope of getting a good coffee (I didn't find one and haven't yet!). A cyclo driver saw me stop to review my map and after some discussion we agreed on a price for him to take me. I have no idea what I was thinking to agree to such a big fee, especially when I was sure my intended destination was close, but I did. We seemed to be travelling a long way and I began to feel much relief that I'd agreed to use his services. We twisted and turned and then pulled up outside my cafe. After my coffee, I wandered and after a couple of streets (no more), surprise, surprise I recognised the street - it was my hotel street and only about 4 minutes separated the two! I smiled. At least the guy had the decency to do a little work and show me a little of the old town of Hanoi for his fee.

You can't win with taxi drivers either. My guide book says to use the meter. The other day I was meeting a new friend and my hotel gave me an indication of price which I paid but as the distance seemed so short I felt the agreed price was too high. So the next time I went the same route I declined the set fee and instead went via meter. The drive seemed to take much longer and the price was double. So now I've decided to just bargain the first fee they mention and at least I know the price and I will get there more quickly otherwise they will find a way to get their money anyway! Oh dear....do I sound cynical?

I went to see the Water Puppets the other day which is about a 45 minute show and most interesting. This type of theatre originated in the 13th Century.

By the way I highly recommend Five - the food, service and location was great.

On Tuesday I'm off to Sapa which is a ten hour overnight train ride up into the mountains and close to the Chinese border.

Internet services and the brain willing, I'll send an update from there.

In the meantime, thanks for all the feedback, I really appreciate it. It's great to know who's reading Travelespresso and what you think about it.

I'm loving.......the thrill of anticipating going to a new place. I get all excited as I'm about to head off to somewhere new.

I'm surprised.......at how noisy Hanoi is. I hate to think how high the decibels are.

My favourite coffee.......are you kidding? I have tried several and its awful. That surpises me because they grow a lot of coffee here but I guess they haven't yet learned how to make the kind of coffee I enjoy. They have their own style and I don't like it at all.

Traveler's love........TripAdviser. It's a website where travelers like me write comments on the hotels they've stayed at. I love it because travelers are so objective and I have found the comments most useful. They help me to short list a hotel and to cross off others I had on my "hit list". If you are not familiar with it check it out http://www.tripadviser.com/. I used it to choose my Sapa hotel which is Sapa Rooms Boutique Hotel. To help other travelers, last week I added some of my own comments about various places I've stayed.

Nine Lives - The Road trip between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang

2008-04-17T21:44:00.000-07:00

If I were a cat I would most likely have used up at least eight of my nine lives on the road trip from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang. The road is extremely windy, narrow and the driver of my mini bus a maniac of the first order!

But before surviving that trip I had three nights in Vang Vieng at the Ban Sabai Cottages http://www.xayohgroup.com/ in a magical spot on the bank of the Nam Song River. High cliffs form a dramatic backdrop. The tall mountains are angular, have mysterious looking valleys and are tucked one behind another in layers. When I was there the heat created a haze adding to the mystery but I am told that during the rainy season they are clear.

The river level is low and from the deck of the hotel, I spent several hours watching the water flow languidly past as I nursed a wine or BeerLao. It all makes for an extremely restful place to spend some time.

The town itself I hated. This really is back-packer town and anyone over 30 (oh gosh is that me!) is seriously outnumbered. The bars and cafes all look the same. I’m not joking when I say that within a 30 metre stretch of the road I walked past three cafes with people laying (wasted….“happy” pizzas perhaps?) on axe shaped cushions watching re-runs of the TV show Friends! I couldn’t wait to leave it. But before I did I had two memorable days away from the crassness in the township.

Tubing down the river on an inflated tractor tyre is a rite of passage for back packers and I joined the ranks. It was great fun. The trip is only 3.5 kms but it took us hours, mostly because one of the people I’d joined decided that this was his day to get drunk and so we stopped many times along the way! I hate to think about how much alcohol he consumed but he began the day with three or four mojitos. Each one is served in a small plastic bag with a straw so its nice and easy to take on the tube! At the last stop he got a small bucket of lao lao which is a strong local spirit, but before that beer and other spirits!

So can you imagine the state he was in? Thankfully we had a guide (Xeng – pronounced Sang) and he took care of the five year old and the drunks antics.

Meanwhile, I drifted slowly down the river away from him, enjoyed being cool and drank in the scenic mountains towering above us. It is a spectacular sight and sometimes, depending upon which view was the best, I tubed backwards so I could enjoy more of the mountains rising above me. We reached our destination some six hours after leaving the hotel. The trip was most enjoyable, but not the company.

One of the reasons the backpackers love this river is the music blaring out, the bars and the rope swings across the river and many choose to stop, imbibe and leap into the river. The people I went down the river with had visited Vang Vieng five months earlier but they were surprised at how many more bars (with accompanying loud music) and swings there were. It seems that someone gets a good idea (whether that be tee shirts, bars, swings, cushion covers or whatever) and then everyone else copies.

I booked the guide, Xeng, for the following day to take me out into the countryside. I left the hotel on the back of his scooter and we went through villages, rice fields, caves, rode across narrow bamboo bridges (yikes!), saw a Buddha in a cave and some bats too among other things.

We stopped for lunch at Pha Tang Resort which is right on the edge of the river and about 17 kms out of town. It’s quiet and beautiful, again with mountains rising right up in front of us. It’s hard to imagine a more perfect place to rest awhile.

I loved the day and enjoyed racing around the countryside. It was an extremely interesting day and having the company of Xeng awesome because he took me to places that would otherwise have been difficult for me to get to. I plied him with questions about the people and customs. It also meant I could stop and take photos when I wanted to. The photo of the four girls (probably about four or five years old) was taken in a village. They just played very happily together by the river without an adult in sight.

Xeng is a very special young man and I would use him (photo attached) again in a heartbeat, except I doubt I will visit Vang Vieng again. He can be contacted through the company he works for - www.laokim.com.

I’d heard all sorts of horror stories of the trip between Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang and now that I’ve done it, I agree with them. Everyone! The scenery on the trip is beautiful but in terms of motoring, it is one six hour journey I do not want to repeat.

The road winds up and up and around and around. Just when I thought that we couldn’t climb any higher we continued our journey up and up and up.

There are many very tight bends and not many straight stretches of road so when we got behind a slow vehicle, the driver would just overtake. The blind corners didn’t hinder his overtaking too often. It was hair raising.

I didn’t know whether to sleep so I wouldn’t know what was going on or stay awake to drink in all of the wonderful scenery. Of course I chose the latter option. But that meant I saw a couple of narrow escapes. Once I screamed as a truck came around the corner on the wrong side of the road and of course we were also on the wrong side; both drivers swerved and I swear the huge cab missed me by about 20 cm if that! It took several deep breaths to slow my heart beat. There were other close calls but not quite as close. If you were forced over the edge there would be no surviving it as barriers are few and very far between.

We had to stop or slow almost to a stand still many times for a variety of things:

Big articulated trucks on the side of the road, broken down or having a rest stop – very common and no warning – you would just come around the corner and there they were!

Wandering across the road:
A big fat goose
Mrs Pig and her piglets, curly tails held high and proud
A dog – it could hardly walk it was so fat along with numerous other dogs
Chickens and fluffy babies following behind, single file.
Cows
Goats
Children in dirty clothes or naked
Rocks piled on the side of the road – sometimes blocking one of the two narrow lanes.

The villages we passed through are very pretty. Most of the houses are flimsy and simply constructed with sheets of woven bamboo and roofs of palm leaves. Sometimes they are made of concrete and occasionally wood. The yards are dirt but are swept clean. There is no litter around (unlike southern Cambodia where, for much a trip through the countryside, you could be forgiven for thinking it was one big rubbish tip).

Sometimes on this trip north we passed through big villages. Many times though, high up in the hills, where extra dirt had been pushed when excavating the road, houses have been built on this reclaimed land – sometimes just a few of them, sometimes a dozen or so. Some of these dwellings are precariously cantilevered over the edge of the mountain with a huge drop down into the valley below. The children play in the only flat land available to them; right beside the road. People bathe within a metre of the roadside too.

The road through the villages was often straight so our driver sped on past, honking his horn to scatter a variety of animals and people out of our way.

Aside from traveling on the wrong side of the road and passing on blind corners, the other scary part of the trip for me was seeing, high up in the mountains, young men in the uniform of the youth, holding sub machine guns. Sometimes these weapons were held casually by their side, sometimes slung over their shoulder. At times these youths were alone, sometimes in pairs but once I saw a group of about a dozen. They were lounging, their guns menacingly arranged at the edge of the road, tee pee style, butts pointing skywards.

A lot of the land is being denuded, (even very steep mountains) and we passed many fires burning making the air thick with smoke. The smoke reaches Luang Prabang later in the day creating a haze over the town.

Now that I’ve arrived here, I am carrying on the tradition of telling horror stories about my trip between these two Laos towns along route 13. Having said that, it’s not a trip to be missed and I am still encouraging travelers heading south to consider taking it at least once because of the outstandingly beautiful scenery.

Luang Prabang is a delight and again I will probably stay longer here than originally planned. It is Lao New Year here so everyone is excited, accommodation in the town is full, and there is much celebration and festivals. I will tell you more in my next article.

I’m missing……..not understanding the customs. Much of what’s happening here is beyond my comprehension and I find that confusing.

Best coffee…..At Saffron by the Mekong in Luang Prabang. Its grown here too and is organic. The Arabica beans are grown especially for the café as a replacement crop for subsistence farmers who turned to growing opium poppies before it was outlawed and now coffee.

I’m loving…….wandering around the township taking photos here and there. It is very photogenic.

Bargain of the moment……..the lunch I bought for Xeng and me. It was more food than we could eat and two nice cold beers all for about $4.

Travelers love……tables in toilets or at least good hooks to hang the junk we carry around while going about what you need to do in these small spaces. Sometimes I've resorted to hanging my "hold-all bag" around my neck!

Taste sensation…….Iced teas – I’ve especially enjoyed watermelon of apple teas.

I’m reading……..Nights of Rain and Stars by Maeve Binchy. Unlikely plot and so, so perfect – all wrapped up in a fluffy pink paper with big exquisite bows and ribbons of cascading stars! Puerile. Not even good escapism.

Eating in Vientiane, Laos

2008-04-07T04:04:00.000-07:00

Eating Places in Vientiane

Finally on the eve of my departure from Vientiane, people in the street are recognizing me; acknowledging me. The Lao people are shy and its taken time but slowly they “see” me.

I’ve changed breakfast spots – just for this morning. I’m at Le Banneton a french cafe and I’ve ordered a cappuccino and as always with a new place I wait, in anticipation for its delivery. Will it be a good coffee or one I want to leave? It arrives quickly and is presented with a flourish. The flavour is divine. It is smooth and flavorsome with a pleasant aftertaste which lingers on my palette. But the cappuccino itself is not well made. The pastry and bread selection here is superb and it inspires me to take a piece back to my hotel for a snack later. And I wonder why I’m not losing weight!

Their coffee is organic and fair trade coffee from the Jhai Estate. This is located in Bolaven Plateau which is in Southern Laos. Coffee was introduced to Laos by the French in the 1930’s. Coffee production went into decline with the war but is now a huge business. Whenever I read anything about Lao coffee they proudly proclaim its Fair Trade status. I’m all for Fair Trade – everyone has a right to be paid fairly for their efforts.

It’s very pleasant sitting here on a crudely constructed bench seat and wooden table watching the world go by. This is a quiet street traffic wise but the number of people wandering by keep it interesting; a mixture of locals and tourists.

Women wearing conical hats come past pushing big flat topped wheel barrow type contraptions loaded up with fresh vegetables. They have a set of scales ready to weigh the produce. Women from the shops and houses nearby come out and greet the seller and then they smell, feel and maybe buy. If it weren’t for the motor vehicles parked on the street or that I’m sitting at a café with a digital SLR camera in front of me, you could think it a scene from a bye-gone era.

A woman carrying baskets of food which hang from a sagging rod slung over her shoulder walks by. I’ve seen this a lot throughout my travels. They have an unusual gait, these vendors, which I imagine is attributed to the weight they carry every day. The gait is similar to the road walkers I’ve seen in the Olympic Games. The attached photo (sorry neither is the best quality – you just have to point and shoot or the moment is lost) is of a lady in Cheong Mon Beach, Thailand cooking my lunch. If the photo is clear enough you can see how much she carries – including fire.

My other favourite breakfast place is the Scandanavian Bakery which is by the fountain. I say breakfast place, but the set meal of cappuccino, fresh fruit salad and my choice of roll, cinnamon bun or croissant is enough for lunch as well. All for around $2.40 (and yes, I just checked my conversion). The quality of the food is extraordinarily good and it has a very pleasant atmosphere. By the way, the toilets at this Cafe are spotlessly clean. I might write an article about the toilets here in Asia sometime....but lets not mix it with food!

On my first day here I went to a river front place called SaBai Dee Café (actually this is the local greeting) and they have an extremely extensive menu. I got very excited when I saw their coffee menu and although it looked extremely good (and they served it with a cinnamon stick and a crockery spoon) the taste wasn’t very good. But…the fruit shakes here are superb and well worth another visit.

The other day I went to Sticky Fingers Café and Bar. My guide says it has the atmosphere of a Sydney café and describes it as being one of the best places to eat here, noting the cuisine as modern international. The first time I went I ordered a feta salad with balsamic dressing. It was my first salad for months and I thought I was in heaven. The taste was so fresh, the blend of flavours so perfect it sent my taste buds into orbit. But, I didn’t like the atmosphere. I’m not sure why. I gave them the benefit of the doubt and put down to me (perhaps I was out of sorts, hot or whatever) or that the staff were having a bad day. I went back a second time but I experienced the same feeling so although I loved the food, I’m not going to try it again.

Of course the JoMa Bakery Café is a favourite haunt and the food and coffee consistently excellent. They serve their own blend of coffee and both the cappuccino and espresso are very good. They offer small or large options. Once I tried a large cappuccino. It was indeed large and served in a mug. Three quarters of the mug was thick frothy milk – probably the thickest I’ve had. The only complaint is that they serve them with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Yuk! One day I tried asking for chocolate on top but my request was not understood. When in Rome….. and it’s a no fuss place to while away some time, people watching, writing or reading.

The police presence on the street is very noticeable today. They are standing around all of the corners in large groups. They are tense too. Occasionally I see young men with automatic guns. They hold their guns loosely by their sides. I’ve seen that on the streets and at the markets, here in Vientiane and Phnom Penh. It always unnerves me. What would it take for them to fire I always wonder?

People tell me that Vientiane is very busy and hot at present. They say it’s much nicer during January. But to me it doesn’t seem busy at all. I find it rather sleepy and that’s just fine by me. I love it here. I feel deliciously relaxed and comfortable here. So much so that I am sure I'm wandering around with a grin on my face all the time. Up until yesterday, I toyed with the idea of staying longer but tomorrow I leave for Vang Vieng – a four hour bus ride north. I’ve booked a place on the Song River – the Ban Sabai Bungalows. This area is famous for its caves and stunning limestone scenery.

After that I’m off to Luang Prabang which is even further north and then I’ll fly to Hanoi in Vietnam. But you’ll be hearing from me before that because I plan to be in Laos until my visa expires on the 23rd April.

2008-04-07T04:02:00.000-07:00

Some Things I’m Glad I Didn’t Leave Home Without……

Packing clothes, a novel to read and taking a camera are obvious items to put into the suitcase, but here are a few things that have made my time “on the road” more pleasurable…….

1. A stretchy clothesline – even though getting washing done is quick and cheap, being able to stretch my line out to dry a few “smalls” is a boon.
2. My laptop – so that when I have internet access, I can connect with friends and family, reserve my next hotel, have fun writing the next installment for my web page and download photos (I use my laptop to store them, then from time to time send a copy home as a backup). It’s been getting loads of use. I bought a Kathmandu neoprene sleeve for it to help give it extra protection for the times I take it to a café to write and for when it gets packed into a specially padded compartment in my day pack.
3. The tiny travel jug and mug (great for my early morning cup of tea in my hotel room).
4. A small medical kit with items such as; Paraderm for healing bites and minor skin abrasions, anti diarrhea and malarial tablets, Royal D (re-hydration mix), band aids, etc. I have tried to be reasonably self sufficient. Even though in the cities pharmacists and supplies are plentiful, the language barrier, and different brand names on products can be a challenge.
5. Lonely Planet guides – I left with three - Thailand’s Islands and Beaches, Cambodia and Vietnam. But then I decided to add Laos onto my trip so added this guide. I picked up a new one in Cambodia for about $10 versus about $50 at home! All are well marked and have been used extensively.
6. A supply of tiny coloured post-it page markers to use in my Lonely Planet guides. It’s amazing how that “vital” piece of information you read about, or fantastic hotel deal can be nearly impossible to “find” again, but with these markers this “misplaced” information rarely happens.
7. A Belkin Power Surge Protector. The electricity supply has, in places, been erratic – lights dim with monotonous regularity (especially in Thailand and Cambodia) and I’m not using a dimmer switch! When my laptop is charging I have a degree of comfort that there’s less likelihood of the insides getting fried! At least that’s what I think – but what do I know about electricity?
8. My journal (of course). I’ve written a couple so far.
9. The wonderful and powerful (but tiny) LED torch for lighting my way back to my room at night. It gets dark here very early. I keep it handy, on my bedside cabinet, in case of power failure during the night.
10. A plug converter so that I can charge my laptop, camera batteries and for use with the electric kettle.
11. A couple of plastic glad containers – ideal for storing open packets of biscuits, nuts etc so they are sealed and won’t get squashed when I pack.

12. A small photo album with a selection of photos of family and some of my favourite places in NZ (including a small map of where we are in the world). At times I feel like I’m a walking tourism adviser to our wonderful country…..it’s a role I’m VERY happy with - if only I could get paid to do it!

Emergency Health Care in Vientiane

2008-04-06T03:29:00.000-07:00

I needed to visit the health clinic here in Vientiane, Laos today. Like going to the Hua Hin Emergency Clinic, (see Travelespresso in February 2008), my visit was for a minor condition but nonetheless, I fervently hope this is my last brush with medical services during my trip.

When I was pitched off the boat into the water in Sihanoukville, I hurt myself and still, two weeks later, my upper rib cage is sore so I decide to check it out before leaving Vientiane (population 234,000) and going north to Vang Vieng (population 30,000).

It’s Saturday and my tuk tuk driver drops me off at the International Hospital (where foreigners are told to go). I am informed that there are no doctors on duty today unless required to attend an accident, heart attack or high fever. I calmly advise the nurse (whose understanding of English is reasonable) that my reason for visiting doesn’t fall into any of these categories. I tell her that my upper rib cage is sore but it is not an emergency.

I was preparing to leave when she says "if I want to see a Doctor now it will cost you $20". Huh? (No point going down the “I thought you just said….…..). Instead I say “OK I’ll pay”.

I’m taken immediately into a consulting room and she instructs me to sit on a bed. To my surprise another woman is led into the room and put on the other bed beside me. The linen looks fresh (but later I notice that it’s not changed between patients). However, the rest of the room isn’t all that clean. Tied to a sink, are a couple of old 2 litre water bottles loaded, almost to the top, with used syringes. The metal side table is covered in rust.

No curtains divide me from the other woman but her consultation is conducted in Lao so I have no idea of her problem, although if I want to watch I can see where the Doctor prods her. After she’s had her diagnosis, she leaves and a man is led in. Because he’s an American I can understand what he’s saying and he’s worried that the needle they’re about to use to inject him is not new. It is, but I too, had been warned to always check this point should I need an injection. Later he told me he had a rabies shot because he was scratched by a cat.

There’s no hand washing between patients but now it’s my turn. The Doctor is a very pleasant woman with a passable command of my language. She presses here and there to confirm the area of pain and concludes it’s not bone, so no broken ribs. However, she informs me, I have strained some muscles. She prescribes massage ointment and time.

I’m directed along a corridor to an outside veranda area where there are two small windows (think TAB). Behind one sits a cashier and the other the pharmacist. I’m waiting in the cashier line, when suddenly the nurse, with the Doctor nipping at her heels, rushes up to me. “You, no pay” the nurse says to me. “Just for today the Doctor says you no pay”. I look at the Doctor but she's just nodding in agreement. I’m confused but say “thank you very much”.

After I collect my ointment, I go on my way.

I stroll back into town, in the sweltering heat, along the Mekong river bank taking the side of the road with the grassy verge which offers a little shade from the overhead trees. Occasionally I glimpse the water in the river some distance from the edge of the bank. The river level is low at this time of the year – nearly the end of the hot dry season.

It’s a relaxing walk and I watch youngsters in groups; in couples, enjoy each other’s company. When I reach town I sit down at a table in one of the air conditioned rooms at JoMa Café, to read, eat and drink. The weekends here at my favourite café are busy, but, the begging lady who always sits right outside isn’t here today. Actually she is just one of two beggars I see around here.

Earlier in the day I spent time at the Post Office where I sent a parcel of goodies home and was asked to pay a “customs” fee (what for or upon what basis the price was calculated, I’m not sure). They helped me to pack the box. I thought I was packing from the bottom up (you know - heavy things on the bottom, light things on the top) but no – that’s not how it’s done. You pack and then tip the box upside down and that’s the top, so then all my easily squashed items where on the bottom!

My visit to the hospital and the Post Office has ensured that again today, I’ve had another interesting morning “on the road”. Even though, at times, I don’t know what’s going on or why. Most times I just go with the flow, remember to smile and forget about how things are done back home.

Taste sensation…….chocolate chip cookies. They’re the best I’ve ever tasted (sorry NZ manufacturers). The chocolate chips are huge and plentiful. I get a solid chocolate fix with just about every bite. Yum Yum. Brand: Pepperidge Farm and made in the USA. I tired to buy some more yesterday but then I remembered that I’d purchased them in Cambodia. Another reason to go back there?

I’m loving……….getting my laundry done by someone else. It costs $1 per kg and it’s returned to me at the end of the day smelling fresh and beautifully folded. This could be the bargain of the moment.

Bargain of the moment……the massage cream for my strained muscles. It cost about 70cents. I imagine I would pay about $20 in NZ, so why is it that we pay so much for this type of product in good ole NZ? On a more positive note, silver is incredibly cheap here and very plentiful.

I’m surprised…..at how I’m stared at. The blond hair? They also love to watch me write. Not quite so much here in Laos but in Thailand and Cambodia they did. In Siem Reap one man stood on the side of the road and watched me for ages as I wrote and had a cup of coffee. He then commented that I must have gone to a good school. I said yes I had. He then said “good….you write more….you write good things about Cambodia” and proudly rubbed his hands together in glee.

I’m missing…..beetroot. Don’t ask me where that came from but suddenly I really miss it. I haven’t seen anything like it so far.

2008-04-05T22:41:00.000-07:00

First Impressions of Vientiane

2008-04-02T05:44:00.000-07:00

First Impressions of Vientiane
Laos

Well….maybe not quite my first impressions since I have already enjoyed several nights here but I’ve flicked back through my diary and I note that I loved this city from the minute I got here.

Those of you who have been closely following my journey will note that when I left New Zealand, I had no intention of visiting Laos. But, several favourable comments from people en route, and I decided to visit here. And....I am glad I have.

It is considerably more laid back than any of the other places I’ve visited on this trip. Even going through the usual entry requirements; obtaining a visa (easy) and going through customs (waved through even though I’d mislaid my customs declaration), jostling for position to pick up the bags off the conveyer belt (it was waiting for me) was the quickest I’ve ever experienced. I was in a taxi cruising towards the capital of Laos inside 50 minutes from touch down.

Even the tuk tuk drivers are relaxed. One driver politely calls out to ask if I want a ride, and when I say “no thanks” I get the feeling they’re relieved because it saves them the effort of rousing themselves from their stupor. They can then go back and snooze (some even have hammocks strung up in the back) or carry on chatting to their mates. If I say “no” to one, you can be sure his colleague next door hears my reply and he’s certainly not going to bother asking. It’s very refreshing.

The official currency is the kip and this is most frequently quoted but the price could also be in US dollars or Baht so I need to keep my wits about me. However, in my dealings, I have found them to be scrupulously honest. It’s a weird thing entering a withdrawal at the ATM for 700,000 kip (the maximum) but it converts to just under USD100 so it doesn’t last very long, especially considering the great shopping opportunities.

Good buys are clothes – tailor made or off the shelf, jade, silver and interesting jewelry, some of it superb. Silk here is beautiful and plentiful although it appears more expensive than Cambodia. Locally grown coffee is plentiful too. So far all of the coffee I’ve seen is organic, fair trade and very very tasty. It would do well in NZ.

I bought some things at the market the other day and after receiving my cash, the proprietor tapped the kip around several piles of goods she had for sale. She said that my sale was the first of the day and her actions would bring her good luck for the day. These same actions were repeated with my second and third transactions. Bargaining is quick and a satisfactory price is reached very quickly.

Beer is cheap at about $1 or sometimes less. I had one sitting on the bank of the Mekong, looking across at Thailand while I watched the dipping sun turn a glorious red. Actually, sitting on the bank isn't quite what I thought it would be as there is a huge mud flat and the water can be seen in the distance. I guess once the monsoon season comes it will be more spectacular from this side. My guide book says at one part, in southern Laos, the river is around 14kms wide in the wet season! Now to see that would be amazing.

Much of the food is cheap too. This morning’s breakfast was under $3 for an excellent cappuccino served in a mug, a warmed croissant and a fresh fruit salad.

The French influence is strong here and very noticeable in the food. A couple of nights ago I had Lamb Shanks in an orange flavoured sauce accompanied by tasty vegetables and that was very pricey. But they were NZ Lamb Shanks so how could I resist? For my food and two very nice glasses of Italian red wine the bill was $19. That’s the most I’ve paid for a meal this trip and it was worth every cent (not that they have coins here!)

I heard the other day the temperature here reached 41 degrees and most days it is hot but it feels a little cooler than Cambodia. Last night there was a massive storm with shafts of lightning streaking across and brightening the dark night sky. The rain pounded the roof tops but even that hasn’t cooled the temperatures.

My hotel is very central and I can walk to the river, nearby markets (which are excellent), cafes shops and several attractions. It feels very safe and this central area is well lit at night too. The police presence is very noticeable. During the last few days of March there was a meeting of the heads of the Mekong Nations and so flash cars raced around the streets lead and tailed by legions of police. They refer to the six Mekong nations of China, Laos, Myanmar, Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand – but not the source - Tibet.

I walked to the Patuxai monument the other morning and climbed to the top. It’s said to resemble the Arc de Triomphe. I can just see this, the most prominent monument in the city, from my hotel window. It has four archways rather than the two of its Paris namesake and saying it resembles the Parisian landmark is a stretch. However, what I found funny is the story surrounding its construction in the 1960’s. The US gave the Lao’s the cement to build a new airport but, instead they built this monument! Oh…I’ve just read that taking photographs is banned from the top. What a silly idea - I’m glad I didn’t know about that little “rule”….besides….there was no-one else up there to see me take the attached photo.

I’m missing………….good company.

Taste sensation……….aside from the Lamb Shanks, today I had a warm mulberry pie from JoMa. I’ve never eaten mulberries before and in this pie they were delicious. The tasty generous filling looked rather like boysenberry and had a similar flavour.

I’m reading…………Consuming Passions by Freda Bright. It’s an easy read with the usual “can’t put down” themes of sex, betrayal, ambition and money. I love curling up with my book in the middle of the day to escape the heat in some air conditioned room.

Traveler’s Love…….Royal D – a beaut re-hydration mix with good things for the body.

Best Coffee….YES…I can report on excellent coffee – two of my favourites are the Scandinavian Bakery (they have their first payment of kip framed on the wall) and JoMa Bakery Café. Throughout my trip, I haven’t been able to get a long black though. Americano just doesn’t do it for me as I find the taste too insipid. So I take either cappuccino or espresso and so far in Laos they have been superb. Being organic and fair trade is a wonderful “feel good” bonus.

I’m loving……..the way each day slips by without too much effort and ever so pleasantly.

Am I Slumming it?

2008-04-02T03:51:00.000-07:00

Am I Slumming?

Here are a couple of photos of the hotel I stayed at (twice) in Phnom Penh. This is the Sokha Heng Guest House and at $20 per night it is a bargain. I’ve had emails from several people asking about the standard of accommodation and hoping I’m not staying in “grot boxes!”.
This hotel is new and it’s very quiet and in a great location. It’s just across the road from the National Museum and not far from the Royal Palace so it’s ideal for me because I love to walk places. Mind you, after the first day, because of the heat, I decided to take a tuk tuk, regardless of how far I was going.
Located in Street 178, this is also is also referred to as “Art Street” due to the proliferation of art galleries, carving studios and silk retailers. The Mekong River is lined with riverfront bars and restaurants are also very close. A couple of my very favourite cafes (B3 and Café Fresco) are within 50 metres of my hotel.

Idyllic Bamboo Island

2008-03-24T19:17:00.000-07:00

I am at writing this from Sihanoukville which is a popular beach area a 4/5 hour bus ride from Phnom Pehn and close to the southern Vietnamese border.

Clearly it is too long since I’ve been out on a boat. I was off for a day trip to Bamboo Island (one of the many islands just off the coast here at Sihanoukville) and to board the boat I had to wade into waist deep water.

Already the boat is full when it’s my turn. I climb up the rusty metal ladder (boating friends I cannot even remember what this is called!) which is positioned very close to the bow. Once I am on the top rung a lovely man holds out his hand for me to grab so that he can help to pull me over the top. There’s nothing else to hold onto on the flat deck. The boat pitches awkwardly and rolls, my hand slips, I am thrown, from the top rung, rather ignominiously, into the water, back first! My back-pack and I are fully immersed. It must have been a very funny sight to all those on board already.

I am very concerned and as I hit the water and I’m sure several choice swear words escape my delicate lips. My back-pack holds many of my valuables – passport, money and camera!

My next boarding attempt goes smoothly and I quickly delve into my pack to check the damage. I am surprised to see that my camera is totally dry. Phew….the relief. Thank goodness for Kathmandu’s great gear, and my good sense, for buying the water proof pack. A chap sitting next to me on the narrow wooden planks, our seat for the day, checks out the zips and expresses surprise that they are water proof too.

It is only later that I realize the bottom of the pack is not waterproof and some of the things I packed first got wet, but nothing much that mattered and my camera and passport are dry!

We get underway and stop at an island for some of the passengers to snorkel and then we chug noisily to Bamboo Island. What an idyllic paradise this wee island is. There are a couple of places to stay and it looks divine. The beach is nice and long with squeaky white sand; the water very warm and inviting.

Lynda (a lady I had chanced upon the day before) invited me to join her on this trip and we spend a wonderful day together. Just as well we have each other for company as there are very few other English speaking people aboard. We meander through a bush track to reach the other side of the island and an even nicer beach and go for a lovely pre-lunch swim.

This is truly a wonderful place to go for the day or even better several nights.

Taste sensation…….lunch on Bamboo Island which is included in the $10 ticket price. (Breakfast was too!) I relish my lunch - a long crusty roll, marinated then barbequed barracuda and salad cut up like coleslaw. Superb. We sit on woven mats on the beach under the filtered shade of casurina trees. Life is great.

I’m enjoying………chatting to Lynda – another traveler from Canada. Meeting up with her is like talking to an old friend and aside from the day trip together, we have dined out too. Tomorrow we go our separate ways, she back to Thailand and me to Laos via Phnom Pehn.

I’m reading………..Lonely Planet Laos so I have some idea of where and what I want to do while I’m there. I’ve added Laos to my original plans so I’m playing catch up. I need the title/author of a great yarn I can read….any ideas anyone? Do let me know.

I’m missing…………not much at all………….

Bargain of the moment……Dinner last night. I had a glass of red wine (only my second glass the entire trip!), barbequed vegetables and fish (OK it WAS barracuda again). I ate this sitting on the second story of a restaurant having climbed up the rickety wooden stairs. The sea is at the bottom of the road, I have stimulating company and I watch an orange coloured full moon rise high in the sky. Price $4.75 but really the overall experience is priceless.

Best coffee…..yes….yes…..YES….I’ve found some here! Starfish Café who serve Bon coffee which is from Thailand. It is excellent coffee.

I’m surprised…….that I’ve been on the road now for about seven weeks without a backward glance or a single doubt about what I left behind (aside of course from the givens - family, friends and my pillow – oh and the certain knowledge of where I can get a great coffee).

How to Give?

2008-03-24T19:15:00.000-07:00

How Should I Give?

Poverty here in Cambodia is noticeable in many ways. Children, adults and many with physical disfigurement do it. They all want money, or food.

Ladies about my age approach and their signal is to hold out an empty bowl and/or motion with fingertips at their mouths imploring me with big sad eyes to give. Mothers with tiny wee babies sit on the footpath waiting, hoping.

People in wheelchairs – missing arms or legs or both (the war has left a shocking mark on many people) wave a cap at me as I stroll past.

Kids, some as young as five or six wander the streets in dirty clothes. Often a young child will be in charge of an even younger one (the latter usually naked) held on by a cotton wrap and they want money for food too. Sometimes the child is thrust at me.

Yesterday from the lovely breezy comfort of the Foreign Correspondents Club (made famous during the war), I sat up high and nursed a lovely cold beer and indulged myself in some overpriced spring rolls. From this great vantage point I had a wonderful view over the Tonle Sap River. Across the road there’s a nice stretch of green grass adjacent to the river. From here I watched a young girl (maybe 10 or 11) bath herself and her 18 month old charge in the river, then stretch out on the grass. As each tourist stopped to see the view, she got up, positioned her sleeping charge on her hip and approached them for money for food. Eventually one gave. She left immediately – to buy food – to give it to the beggar-master (it’s said they exist) I couldn’t be sure as she went out of view.

It’s terribly sad. There’s no social welfare here. The NGO’s (Non Government Organisations) are doing a great job but the problem is immense. My dilemma is, should I give and encourage a dependency on begging? Yet I have a conscience, my western wealth is immense (comparatively) and there is an immediate need.

Personally I’ve decided on two approaches. I patronize stores (and put money in the donation boxes there) where and when I can because I know they are training people for fair trade employment. They help to give individuals skills and perhaps assistance to help them start up a business. Then, I give away a certain amount of money each day.

Of course, whatever I do, it’s never enough, but I’ve decided this is what I can do for now.

I’d be really interested to hear some feedback on the approach others have (or would) take when traveling in a developing country.

Children of the Temples

2008-03-24T19:11:00.000-07:00

The Children of the Temple Ruins

The second my tuk tuk stops at any one of the larger temples I am surrounded by many children beseeching me to buy from them; bracelets, small bronze statues, postcards, scarves, shirts, books, DVD’s, hats, water, anything…...to buy something. They each want “madam” to buy from them.

Although young, they are highly skilled, tenacious and have many selling techniques. “Where are you from?” is a common question.
I reply, “New Zealand”.
After the briefest of pauses the reply comes, “the capital of New Zealand is Wellington”.
“Yes, that’s correct and you are very clever”.
“OK…I know the capital of your country……you buy from me now.” That may or may not be followed with “then I can go to school”.
Another technique is to say “what’s your name?” and then they follow me along saying “Joy, you buy from me…..Joy you buy from me”.

Some visitors are clearly irritated by the vendors and the beggars and I can see why because it is very wearying. Personally I think that these are just kids out trying to do the best for themselves and their families. I find it difficult to ignore them. I want to engage with them and sometimes I do.

Sometimes I buy. I’ve purchased many packs of postcards and some scarves. Far too many to send or bring home, but hopefully the donation helps some family because $1 is a lot of money here and that amount of money will probably allow a family of three to eat for a day.

One young boy waiting, hiding in the middle of a temple whispered to me to follow him and after several persuasive attempts I went with him. He tempted me with the offer of a good spot for a photograph. He was perhaps eight and said he had no mother or father. Although I had some difficulty understanding him, he launched into a history lesson on all the temples around him, pointing enthusiastically this way and that. His knowledge was clearly outstanding. When it came time for me to pay for the knowledge he wanted $10. He said “it’s for my school and they can only take $10”. He had several strong arguments, all aimed at tugging at my heart strings.

Many children out here beg. Temple guards sometimes chase them away. A couple of times I saw a mother get all of her children into a temple early in the morning. Sheer joy and satisfaction lit up her proud beautiful face.

I took the photograph of the little boy with the dog at Banteay Srei Temple. He was just sitting there looking very plaintive; his tiny dog snuggled into a crack in the stones. I stood and watched for some time and many people gave him things – some gave sweets, some wee books or pencils and some money. With every donation, he put his hands up to his face (prayer style) as a thank you. The second the visitor moved on, he quickly hid the money, out of sight, between the folds of his dirty cream trousers then waited, patiently, silently, for the next person to come along.

One young girl who was probably about 10 or 11 (the hat maker) wanted to sell me postcards. I could tell that her heart wasn’t in it as all the other children are unbelievably persistent. But she was lethargic. I went around the corner and sat amongst the ruins so I could have some quiet time and write in my diary.

She got up and hid her stash of postcards and disappeared for a time. When she returned I could see that she had collected a pile of large green leaves and some thin dry twigs. She took up a position just along from me and humming happily she used these rudimentary tools to construct a hat for her bald head. We laughed and laughed as she tried it on only to find it was too small. The moments we shared were precious. I asked permission to take her photo and she obliged so as I left I gave her one dollar but she wouldn’t accept charity, insisting instead that I take a pack of post cards.

Later I asked Cambodians why she was bald and was told of two possibilities. The first was that her head had been shaved so her hair could be sold to raise money. The other possibility was that one of her parents had died and so it was done as a mark of respect.

Of course these are times when the children should be in school. I asked many different people including the children themselves about school and received many and conflicting answers. I got the feeling that they were irritated at being asked such a question.

Responses ranged from, “no school today”, “I go this afternoon”, “the teacher is sick so no school” etc. I have been told that school is free but at other times told that there is a cost. Some say that when the family has enough money the child will go to school but if not they must sell goods to eat.

I am in conflict; do I give and allow them to eat or does my giving encourage begging but I have written about that in an different article.

It’s very likely that these children are the descendants of the kings or the people from this truly amazing period in their countries history. Yet they are forced to beg to live. These temple sites get over one million paying visitors to their ancient home. The order of things doesn’t seem right to me and I can’t help but think there must be a better way.

Terror on Tonle Sap Lake

2008-03-18T20:47:00.000-07:00

When I planned a late afternoon visit to the most productive fresh water lake in the world; the home of many people who live on the water, the last thing I thought I needed to consider was my safety. Afterall, this is a very popular tourist attraction, and yet, this trip was extremely scary.

Access to the lake is via an extremely rutted dusty red road and for the first time in many days of travel on my tuk tuk I grab the holds with both hands to try to steady my body from being thrown out of the cab. Buses, going too fast for the conditions, pass us stirring up a thick cloud of dust. The air is disgusting with a nasty cloying fishy smell.

The poverty here is heart wrenching too as, lining the road on both sides, are one roomed shacks made of thatched leaves, some in a poor state of repair. I see the families belongings piled up on the raised floor.

We stop and a young man meets me – about 14 years old I guess. He directs me and I follow him down the hardened bank of mud, littered with rubbish, and climb over several long boats to get to the one I’m to go out on.

When I get to the boat I am worried. The boatman is already pulling and I move very quickly as the distance between the two boats widens. I am shocked to see the age of the “skipper” – he is a child and I am the only passenger. Too late to act, we are underway.

To get to the lake we navigate a muddy and confused water way. The skipper keeps stalling the motor. This is definitely not to be recommended in swift, swirling and confused water. I am even more worried with the company of three lads – the skipper aged 16 and his two companions 15.

They are hoons and keep larking about as though they are on a school trip. As I am the only person on the boat I feel rather insecure. My feelings of unease heighten when a machete drops down from somewhere. I take a little comfort in the fact that there are many other boats around us and I feel that if I need to, I’ll yell for attention.

But, when we reach the main body of the lake, they want to drop me off at a floating restaurant out there on the water (many people live on the water here) but I don't want to stop. The lads are not happy and confer in an agitated manner amongst themselves. From the truculent body language the skipper makes a decision - he takes the boat far away from everywhere and cuts the motor! I decide to play it cool and try to look like I’m not worried while we drift for a time.

Eventually the “skipper” starts the motor again (mind you he still keeps stalling it) and we do a little tour around the floating shacks on the water.

I am relieved that soon we turn to go back. Then they start hassling me for tips. They want money for school, they say. Although still concerned for myself .....I say "later".

He repeats and repeats his demands getting right up against my face so that I can feel his putrid breath on my cheek and I pull away a little. He says, rather crossly “do you understand what I’m asking? You pay me now!”

I nod. Then another of the threesome said “do you understand what he said?” nodding towards his mate.

I reply with much more bravery than I feel "yeah I understand really well....do YOU understand…..we are not back at shore yet."

I remind myself to breathe deeply. Where is the rescue remedy when I most need it?

I feel like I am in no win situation. I don’t want to tip them – the scumbags don’t deserve it. But I also feel that if I give them money and they think it’s insufficient they will make it difficult for me.

We make it back and they pull the boat up on a muddy bank. I see my lovely tuk tuk driver, the same one I’ve had my entire time in Siem Reap, and feel huge relief. He comes down and takes my bag and camera so now, unencumbered, I can easily leap off the bow of the boat.

Meantime the money I pulled out of my purse (in case I had no option but to tip) was still in the palm of my sweaty hand. I walk away, very quickly, grasping it and I feel much satisfaction that I've outwitted the young shites!!!

However, I was very cross and rather shaken. I told my driver and the people at the hotel. They said that I should have reported it to the water police out at the lake - but who would know! I was too shaken to do anything but feel relieved I had gotten away safely. It’s a shame because this behaviour does little for a region trying to grow tourism. I was happy to be back at my hotel and able to strip off all my clothes for washing and to take a shower to get rid of the nasty lingering smell.

Part II - Temples of Angkor

2008-03-18T20:07:00.000-07:00

Before reading this, I recommend you read The Temples of Angkor Part I.

The air is smoky on the long straight road as I travel, sitting like a queen in the back of my tuk tuk heading towards Angkor and the temples. Even though it is before sunrise, the road is busy and the exhaust fumes give the cool morning air a blue tinge. Everyone is in a hurry, keen to get into a position they believe will give them the best sunrise view.

My first view of Angkor Wat was the day before and it was surreal. Yet, it held an air of familiarity, probably because of the numerous photographs I’d seen of this special place. What surprised me though wasn’t seeing Angkor Wat, it was the huge moat surrounding the outside wall and also the magnitude of the complex. Nothing, nothing nothing could have prepared me for that. It is truly a magnificent sight and even more so when I stop to consider the time of construction - between 1113 and 1150.

After a day or two of visiting the temples, I sit in the back of the tuk tuk and I am ticking the ruins off like old friends. By the time I leave, I’ve traversed the circuit many times now; Te Keo, the old bridge, the ruins of Chau Say Tevoda, through the magnificient old Victory Gate then the road is straight via an avenue of trees until my driver stops at the “T” junction. In front of me, the massive terrace of elephants wall greets me and it extends out to the left and right. We turn left here and if I crane my neck a little I can see the complex of Angkor Thom with Baphuon Temple peeking out behind the wall and then the weirdest temple of them all – Bayon.

The distance between Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat is several kilometers. But before I reach this Angkor Wat, I squeeze through the very narrow opening of the South gate, go past the giant heads (54 gods on one side and 54 demons on the other) guarding the temples. Finally in another kilometer I get my last view of the day - Angkor Wat and its protective moat before I head for my home base in Siem Reap.

Phew…..this is an impressive loop and one I enjoy each trip.

Sometimes when I visit the temples they are over – run with visitors. I went to Ta Prohm for a second visit but as there were too many people I left quickly surprising my waiting tuk tuk driver. It was difficult to move through the narrow corridors, and certainly no chance of getting the photos I wanted because there were too many people in the frame. Thankfully on an earlier visit there were fewer people and I got some great photos showing the power of the jungle as it takes over. Here (more so than any other temple) trees have literally grown on the stones and their roots entwined in the stones so that it looks as though they form part of the design. Of course they are not and these massive trees and roots are putting much pressure on the walls causing them to buckle and collapse.

High up, I see, clinging to one of the lateral branches, a huge bees nest just hanging in mid air like a huge upside down “U”. From this distance it looks like a beautiful work of art – so smooth and perfect in its form and function.

Occasionally, at the temples, I am the only person in a large area, room or hallway. When that happens, often I stop and sit on the age old stones and try, without the “noise” created by other people, to contemplate what it would have been like to have lived all these centuries ago. But I find this excessively difficult. Once I am sitting though, I see all sorts of details I missed when standing and these observations constantly surprises me.

My Lonely Planet Guide suggests that at lunch time, when the visitors on tour buses stop to eat, is a good time to get some quiet space. It’s true! I’m surprised it worked and I have a lovely time. But it is rather hot, wandering around Angkor Wat at this time of day. It is also rather eerie.

The magnificent and delicately carved Banteay Srei (a fascinating hour long ride through villages and the countryside from Siem Reap) is the most roped off temple I visited. Still, it’s possible to get up close and despite signs not to touch the detailed bas relief people still do.

Other temples too have restrictions – notably the bas relief walls of Angkor Wat. The other restrictions are where restoration work is being undertaken.

Some of the temple sites are in a very precarious state of ruin and yet they are still open for tourists to walk under partially collapsed doorways, crawl over piles of rocks or clamor up extremely steep stairways. Sometimes there are signs to say “don’t climb” a particular pile of rubble, but these are much less frequently placed than is justified.

There are no hand rails or barriers either and the drop off (onto stones) from some parts is several metres.

On my first visit to a site, I was amazed at the narrowness of the stairway treads. Frequently to get any kind of foothold, I have to turn my foot sideways to progress and even then my foot only just fit. The risers were perhaps 15 inches in height, so it is hard work trying to climb up. The stairways are the path to heaven. According to early beliefs, the transition between earth and heaven is not meant to be easy hence the steepness. It also creates an optical illusion that the temple is much higher than it is in reality. I surprised myself by climbing up many and the view was, at times, magnificent. Other times, I sat at the bottom and enjoyed young tourists racing to the top.

For today’s tourists, in some places they’ve constructed wooden stairways over the old stone steps, and they have even treads and have removed some of the steepness. Still they are steep.

These edifices were built as temples to the gods. The first temples were for Hindu gods. The latter ones built under Jayavarman VII were dedicated to Buddhism when he declared it to be the national religion. They are full of symbolism and the beautifully detailed carvings have left a graphic reminder of the beliefs during this period. Some also give an insight into the lifestyle. Bas relief detail show acrobats, people drawing water and playing chess, winning battles, losing life to name a few scenes.

The temples range from the comparatively basic and unadorned Ta Keo to the classically beautiful temple of Angkor Wat with 600 metres of bas relief and 2000 apsaras, particularly around the lower of its three levels. Then there is the stunningly beautiful and detailed in outlying Banteay Srei (36 kms from Siem Reap) to the out and out weird. I went to Banteay Srei twice, as much for the lovely ride in the countryside as to revisit the site. However, it is definitely worth a second visit as I saw different aspects of its magnificence.

The Bayon temple takes the prize for the weird. It’s a temple (part of the extensive Angkor Thom complex) built by the most prolific builder of all the kings – Jayavarman VII.

Bayon is a testament to his ego and absolute creative genius. This temple has 54 gothic towers displaying 216 smiling (rather coldly) faces of Avalokitesvara. This is the Mahayana Buddhist ideal of compassion, who chooses not to pass into Nirvana but help bring enlightenment to others. But these all seeing heads bear a resemblance to King Jayavarman! How’s that for ego? No matter where I turn many faces are looking down on me. It’s weird. This is one of the many temples that on first viewing looks just like a pile of old stones but once I had spent time there more and more of the detail unfolded.

Sometimes inscriptions were etched into the stones and these detail the number of people the temple supported, an inventory of staff and jewels held in the libraries.

Much detail has been lost though because many records were written on palm leaves and these have long since disintegrated.

Historians have been able to reconstruct the history with the assistance of an account left by a Chinese emissary – Chou Ta Kuan who spent a year at Angkor in the later 13th century. He notes that some of the spires were covered in gold. None of that remains today, but what a spectacle that would have made.

It is truly amazing but exhausting to visit these temples. I spent 5 days there and was able to visit all of the main temples. I also went to another small temple (Ta Nei) which required a walk of one and half kilometers to reach it. It was a treat to be there because aside from my driver I was the only person there – oh and a guard sleeping. There’s always a guard these days because there has been so much looting.

Actually with the projected growth for the area, I cannot imagine what it will be like to visit these wonderful ruins with double the number of visitors. Currently visitors to Cambodia number 2 million but receipts for the ruins around Siem Reap numbers 1.1 million (there is some suggestion in the media that these figures are understated!) Nor can I imagine that we will continue to be allowed almost unrestricted access to climb over, sit and touch these ancient ruins. However, I feel very fortunate that I have had some time here.

Photos: Apsara at Banteay Srei, Bees nest at Ta Prohm and impact of trees at Ta Prohm

Ancient Temples of Angkor Part One

2008-03-16T19:25:00.000-07:00

The Ancient Temples of Angkor – Part One
The Kingdom of Cambodia

Nothing could have prepared me for how utterly stunned I would feel when I first see the magnificent temples of Angkor. The temples and the surrounding area offer surprises at every turn. I stare in wonder; in awe at the gargantuan structures, and the extensive building program to develop these. Once I am close, I admire their decoration.

What we are able to see today probably just represents a fraction of the edifices from a progressive early society that stretched from Burma to Vietnam and into Thailand.

To be honest my prior preparation for coming here was overshadowed by the massive effort in handing over my business and getting away from New Zealand and so I am playing catch up and did some more reading once in Siem Reap. For me to try to understand and appreciate the magnitude of these temples, and the unimaginable difficulty they faced in transporting the goods and then building them, I needed to understand a little more of the background; why were they built, how were they constructed and how did the people live during these early times?

The following is a summary and hopefully you will find this interesting and helpful for my next couple of articles about the temples.

In truth, there are many gaps in the knowledge of the scholars, but it has been possible to construct some idea of the times.

Although some kings moved the capital, for many centuries its home base was Angkor.
The temples were built to honour religion – mainly Hindu but later Buddhism. This was a culture steeped in mystical thoughts and beliefs. The ruling kings were said to be descendants of “divine lineages, one solar, one lunar and so the kings of the Khmer (Cambodians) became living gods and temples their divine inspiration” (Ortner).

These kings and the people of the kingdom were (and still are) very religious. Much of the early period was influenced by near neighbour India and early religious alliances were Hindu. Very early philosophical teachings – dharma which is the order of the universe encouraged the concept of moral obligations i.e. a duty in society and righteousness. Early teachings belong to the religion of the Vedas composed by a Brahman priest some period before or after 1000BC. Sacrifices were made by community leaders who won benefits. Top of the wish list – strong sons and cows!

Later priests became full time specialists and were patronized by the rulers. Later again the concept of karma came into being (around 8th century BC) – the moral law of cause and effect. This was accepted by the main religious groups.

At the time, and this particular period began in 802AD, it was thought that only stone could be used to honour the gods and people lived instead in wooden structures. Perhaps they were housed within inner walls of the temple grounds. Certainly the Royal Palaces were housed within the massive walls and probably other buildings too. None of these wooden structures have survived and little is known of how the ordinary people lived during this time.

The temples around Angkor (the close ones are approximately 7-8 kms from Siem Reap) were constructed by a variety of kings (ten in particular). The time that is now referred to as the Angkorian period spanned more than 600 years from AD 802 to 1432.

It was a bloody time. There were fights amongst families as usurpers killed to gain the power of the throne. But, it was also a time of much conflict amongst warring neighbours such as Myanmar, Thailand, and Vietnam as they sought to extend their borders or reclaim what they thought was theirs in the first place. Building activity in Angkor increased after battles were won and also when a new king took the throne indicating they were constructed in celebration or to announce their entitlement.

At the peak of the empire, the area housed over 1 million people. Compare that to London at the same time with a population of 50,000 shows this was truly a power in its own right. Thousands of villages and tens of thousands of individuals were needed to maintain one single temple and over the course of the Angkorian period a great many were built.

Another thing that amazes me is the foresight of the various Kings of the time, the knowledge, the tenacity and skill necessary to build then beautify the temples with carvings, each one trying to outdo his (there was only one Queen) successor. Many are decorated with apsaras (or celestial nymphs – one who dances for gods). There is also many kilometers of bas relief (shallow carvings done in relief) depicting scenes from the past and many mythical and real beasts.

It’s difficult to image the hardship the labourers must have endured to quarry and transport the massive stones from some 50 kilometres way to the temple location. Some of these stones are massive – i.e. one stone makes up the whole side of a door jam – and it’s thick.

The round holes drilled into the stones through which wet bamboo poles were inserted to help shift them are still visible today. It’s impressive to note that, prior to this extensive building program the Khmers had no history in working with stone.

It’s not clear how they moved the quarried stones to the building sites but it was probably by elephants and the sheer muscle force of the people of the time. There has been a suggestion they used rafts to float them down the waterways but that’s been trialed relatively recently and has been discredited.

When the Angkorian period began, the region was broken up into small kingdoms and it was the first of the kings of this period – Jayavarman II (r 802 – 50) who united the country. During some later reigns territory was lost, regions factionalised and then bought back together again. The area now known as Cambodia was considerably more extensive than it is today and during some periods of time in its history incorporated parts of Laos, Vietnam and Thailand.

There is no doubt that during this period Cambodia was a powerful force. It also seems from the limited records available that it was a very rich nation. Sanskrit inscriptions left in stone within the temple walls note the treasures housed; diamonds, pearls, gems, silks, gold and other precious objects. Much of this has been plundered and destroyed over the centuries. However, some treasures have been removed and are on display at the National Museum in Cambodia’s present capital Phnom Penh.

To undertake such massive construction meant the region had wealth and part of that richness can be attributed to access to good natural resources. Angkor is close to the huge Tonle Sap Lake which is the biggest and most productive fresh body of water in the world. This lake is fed by the Tonle Sap River which in turn is fed by the mighty Mekong. The Mekong’s source is in the Tibetan plain and it flows down through China, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia and into Vietnam. During the monsoon season (June-October) the Mekong overflows and this brings additional water and nutrient rich red silt down into the plains (Cambodia is very flat) to the home of the Khmer.

As the Mekong floods, so too does one of its main tributaries, the Tonle Sap River. During the monsoon the lake triples in size and during this time swells to encompass over one third of Cambodia’s land area (Ortner). One of the reasons Angkor was chosen as the capital was the lake, its capacity to feed a huge nation and the strategic importance of the body of water to protect the region and from which to launch pre-emptive strikes on neighbours and vice versa as it happens.

The Khmers appreciated these seasons; they understood astronomical cycles along with the impact of the natural forces of nature. They worshipped the gods who provided the plentiful bounty.

During this Angkorian period they harnessed this water flow by building massive reservoirs. The first was constructed by Indravarman (r 877-89) who built one measuring 6.5 sq km. Through the construction of these reservoirs or barays, dikes and canals they were able to extend the growing season which is very impressive; especially when one considers the time we are talking about.

The construction of Angkor Wat, the temple which has captured the most attention in the West, was begun during the reign of Suryavarman II (r1112-52). He was the seventh of the top ten kings. Although he reigned for several decades, all was not well in the Kingdom during his reign. It is thought that the barays (by this stage there were many) began to silt up and this slowed down food production. Deforestation and the pressure on the people of the land to build Angkor Wat helped to lead to the demise. Building the temples used the royal resources but it’s also thought that workers contributed and perhaps paid additional taxes too.

Under this pressure, the nation weakened and the people of southern Vietnam made a successful strike on Angkor. They burned the wooden city and pillaged it. But a later Khmer king struck back and reclaimed Angkor.

Jayavarman VII was the king who was able to again unify the country and under his leadership (r 1181 - 1219) the most extensive building program was undertaken. Aside from building many temples, he also developed civic programs such as hospitals, roads, bridges and schools right across the kingdom. Some bridges remain today.

The temples built during his reign include – Angkor Thom, Bayon (weird faces – see Part II), the atmospheric Ta Prohm and Preah Khan. Jayavarman VII was the last king of this great, great period in Cambodia’s history.

Many of the temples have massive walls around them and some have moats. Sometimes they have pools and one, Phimeanakas and the Royal Palace (near Bayon and Bauphon) has a pool measuring 125 m by 45 m. Here the king would sit to watch aquatic sports. It is a lovely shady spot and the water, although brown, looks a very tempting to me as a place to cool off as the sun reaches its zenith around midday.

Although the pool in the grounds of the Royal Palace pool is impressive the moat surrounding Angkor Wat is even more so. It is 190 metres wide and it forms a giant rectangle around the temple walls measuring 1.5 km by 1.3 km. It is a breathtaking sight. Today it still holds water whereas some others (during March, the time of my visit) were dry. This moat was rumored to house aggressive crocodiles during the king’s time.

It’s thought that the moat is one of the reasons this temple survived the times reasonably well because the water acted as a barrier to the jungle.

Sadly the jungle has caused much damage to many of the temples and Ta Prohm is one where it’s easy to see the effects of the creeping vines and strangle fig trees. Massive roots are insidiously entwined in the stones, and they almost look as though they are part of the construction. Although nature has caused many walls to crumble and buckle, it is atmospheric particularly when the sun lights up the light bark so that it glows and creates shadows across the nooks and crannies of the trees and stones.

After Jayavarman VII’s death in 1219 the Khmer empire lost its luster and went into decline.

Today visitors crawl all over the temples and their ruins. I spent a total of five days there, including sunset and sunrise viewings. I found the temperature acceptable at either end of the day, but after 1000 very hot and tiring. I kept my visits to about 5 or 6 hours. I recommend any visitor spend a minimum of three days dedicated to the temples, more if there is a strong interest in ruins, history or religion.

In preparing this summary, I referenced a couple of books; Lonely Planet “Cambodia”, Ortner’s “Celestial Temples of the Khmer Empire” and Freeman and Jacques “Ancient Angkor”) along with information gathered as I’ve cruised around many many sites in the area. For any visitor, I highly recommend each of the three and the latter two can be purchased by touts out at the temples.

Photos: A tourist climbs "the stairway to heaven".

Part of the bas relief at Bayon

Siem Reap Booms

2008-03-11T22:53:00.000-07:00

Siem Reap is a booming town, but it presents a little like the wild-west towns of old. Instead of gun slingers waging battles and duels, the attack and stand-off positions are assumed by vehicles. The bigger the motor the more power is wielded and with a toot (or two or three depending upon the drivers intentions or urgency) the smaller motors or motor less scatter into the dusty berm.

In town there are pavements but very often café’s reach across the area covering it. Or, vehicles park right on the pavement leaving no option for a pedestrian; they must take their chances by walking on the road. I notice that I’ve developed a kind of arrogance that I have just as much right to be on the road as the 2 and 4 wheeled variety.

But it’s tricky as I have little idea of the road rules. It is right hand drive here. But it seems that when you turn a corner, (say turning left the vehicle moves from the right-hand side over to the left to turn) you can continue driving on the opposite side until its safe to go back to the correct side. As a consequence, I am so very careful to check, double check, triple check before putting my tootsies onto the street. Night travel – headlights it seems are optional! Of course many of the streets, including where my hotel is located, are dirt and wide enough for one vehicle but its not one way, so can you imagine big tourist buses, along with tuk tuks, bikes, scooter and people all vying for space.

Siem Reap has a flourishing café scene serving all types of cuisine – western, Cambodian Khmer (I haven’t yet established the difference but the latter proudly proclaim their pedigree), Thai, French etc. For a time (1864) the French took over and so there’s a noticeable French influence in the food and in the beautiful atmospheric old buildings. I can eat a delicious and nutritious meal for about $2 or $3 but add another $2 for a beer or a freshly squeezed juice in many places.

I’m writing the draft for this item whilst sitting at an outside table at the Blue Pumpkin Café. They make the most divine flakey croissants, breads, cakes and other pastries. It’s a popular spot. Generally, they really try hard when it comes to service and are most pleasant but are frequently very slow and inattentive. If the bar, cafe or shop has a TV going I am sure you could dance on the table top and the waiting staff wouldn't notice! But, hey, all of this tourism stuff is relatively new.

The country has just celebrated 2 million visitors for the 2007 year which is up 20% on 2006. South Koreans lead the charge with 16.4%, then Japanese 8%, USA 6.8%. The 2010 estimate is 3.35 million. The tourism sector contributes 15.8% of total employment.

They mention “flash packers” (I like that term) – of which I am one! Those tourists taking a career break or extended time out but want some comfort and at $15 a night (this is mid range) for my hotel I’m getting that comfort. This might be a third world country but the accommodation is very nice and what’s more I have a choice of 69 television channels in my room. Channel surfers eat your heart out!

The local newspaper reports concern about money not being absorbed locally and they mention the Korean and Japanese visitors as a particular concern because they do their purchasing at souvenir shops owned by their countrymen. They also patronize their own restaurants and hotels. Gosh, I say, why bother traveling if you are going to do that. But we have the same situation with various national groups in NZ don’t we?

In fact two days before I picked up the local newspaper with these statistics I had first hand knowledge of this.

I was visiting a temple and stopped to buy a cold drink. The temple vendors (aged between 8 and 20) invited me to sit with them and for a short time they stopped their sales pitch and also rested a moment or two and we chatted. It was a lovely moment. They lamented the fact that these two national groups never bought from them. They rely upon this income so it’s a big problem. I wonder if these rather wealthy groups appreciate the impact of their purchasing decisions where it can mean the difference between these kids and/or their families eating that day or not? According to Lonely Planet just 10% of the ticket price goes back to the restoration of the temples. Of the balance 75% goes to the government and 15% goes to the petroleum company Sokimex who control the administration and access to the temples. But that’s a separate and very complex issue.

The currency is also very interesting. The official currency is the United States Dollar. But, they also have the riel (KHR). When I arrived I changed $100 into KHR and in exchange received brand new notes piled about ½ inch high!

There are no coins here so if say, I buy a slice of yummy coconut cake, that costs 75c, I hand over USD1 and get back 1000KHR in change. At the end of the day I need to sort my wallet and separate the two currencies again. Everything is so so cheap that I still haven’t used up the money I changed at the airport 7 days ago – plus the fact that given the choice everyone wants USD.

The sharp vendors out at the temples try to use currency for their gain and, I suspect, take advantage of visitor confusion. I chose a bag and after some bargaining we agreed on a price of $7. I elect not to bargain too hard because these are very poor people but the “sport” of haggling is a must, its fun and it is definitely expected. After agreeing the price for the bag, my vendor then asks me to pay in baht (Thai currency). “How much will that be?” I ask without any intention of paying in baht anyway as I have it safely tucked away in my money belt and I’m not about to dip into it here.

She replies very quickly, a price in baht which I mentally convert and it’s $21! “No way – that’s far too high a price” I say. She laughs too and tries again. “Ok,ok, you pay me in KHR and again names an amount that converts again much closer to $20.

“I think I’ll pay you in USD” I say. She’s happy, has had some sport for the day, received a good price and I’m very happy with my purchase.

I’m enjoying……the flexibility of having no fixed itinerary and the wonderful people.

I’m reading……. the local newspapers and Celestial Temples of the Khmer Empire.

I’m missing…..steak and salad and coffee…coffee….coffee…… The coffee here is well…pretty yukky actually. I’m disappointed – of course.

I’m surprised…..that I’m not missing my evening glass of red wine – actually I haven’t even thought about it. I’m also surprised at how easy it is to travel here. English is very widely spoken and in most places around here very well.

I’m loving…..living the dream – my dream – also of visiting Angkor Wat and the other temples. I really like it here and have just extended my time.

Next .......I’ll try to put an article about the amazingly beautiful and extensive temples. I need to let a little time pass so that I can try to absorb what I’ve seen and come to grips with it so that I can write coherently about it. They are truly wonderful and it’s been/is quite a moving and spiritual experience. I didn’t expect that at all.

Hua Hin Delivers on the Coffee

2008-03-10T04:07:00.000-07:00

Finally Hua Hin delivers and I’ve found coffee worth a mention. Hooray!

I chanced upon a café on my first morning in Hua Hin and I found it in the unlikely named Darjeeling (of the tea variety) Unlimited.

The black coffee was espressed with care by the owner Alinnada Chaiyo. The coffee is rich, strong and with a thick crema. This is served in a cup with a handle that curves uniquely into the cup and then it is placed on a cute curved saucer – in immaculately clean white china. (see the photo) The coffee is grown in Chiang Mai and is 100% Arabica bean.

Darjeeling Unlimited has just a four tables and they concentrate on tea and coffee. By the way, Alinnada also makes an excellent pot of tea (this is her first love) which she serves in a large pretty teapot. A new business, the owner also imports and exports. Some of the goods are shown in the café and a range of jewelry, bags and other gifts are available for sale. The other photo is of Alinnada.

Then, just up the road is a café that looks rather like Starbucks. But that’s where the comparisons end. At Coffee World they serve superb coffee in large cups and their food would look at home in a Parisian café and tastes just as good.

Both Darjeeling Unlimited and Coffee World have fast internet access on great new computers (a bonus for a traveler) – the former is free to customers.

Monkey Hill - Hua Hin Thailand

2008-03-08T16:05:00.000-08:00

Monkey Hill

Note to self: before charging off to some place noted on the map – first establish whether the map is to scale!

It didn’t look far. An early morning walk along the beach of about one hour, turn right at the Hyatt Hotel, take the next right and in a short time I’d be at my desired destination Khao Krailas Hill (the aptly named Monkey Hill). This is the home of numerous statue and Buddha.

After walking for a time and feeling I’d gone further than I should have, (had the map been to scale!) I stopped to ask directions. “Oh you haven’t got far to go” said the man pointing far, far into the distance. “Only about another one kilometer” he added cheerfully.

To be honest it looked much further than I wanted to be walking and the sun was getting higher in the sky. I was hot so I ducked up a road and waiting right there (aren’t they always) was a trusty tuk tuk driver. After some good natured banter, we agreed on $10 for him to take me there, wait about one hour while I wandered around the site, and then he would take me back into town.

Just as well I used a tuk tuk because we were motoring for quite some time before reaching my destination. I also noticed that none of the signs were in English so there is no doubt that I would not have reached the wat without local knowledge.

However, after arriving at the site, I very nearly changed my mind about visiting it. The first hesitation was when I saw the steps (almost reaching up to the sky) I had to climb to get there. The second time was not related to such “wimpish” behaviour.

As I neared the top of the steps, shoulders and arms covered like a respectful tourist (shamefully I forgot about the open toed shoes though), I was stopped in my tracks by about six rabid looking dogs barking furiously, their sharp fangs baying for food, or revenge - who would know. I’m scared of dogs at the best of times so I was paralysed quite literally “on the spot” quite unsure what to do. I was sure that if I turned and ran down (or even calmly walked - but how to be calm under so much pressure!) the couple of hundred steps I had just grunted up they might begin to chase me. But aside from that – I felt that there was NO WAY I was going to get past these monsters safely.

As I wavered in my decision making I heard a young woman call “good morning ma-dam” and then an open faced craggy old lady appeared. She was dressed very simply in white draped around her old body toga style and carried a long bamboo stick. She was my salvation! With this stick she hit the ground and spoke very softly to the dogs until they are silenced; she moved them away from me and with gesture invited me to visit the wat.

I’m so glad I persevered. Many of the buildings and statues have been carved out of the side of the massive rocks that make up this hill. There is a beautiful carved and gold trimmed wat, multi coloured frangipani trees in full bloom cast their lovely soft scent around the hill, a monk dressed in his orange robe makes a scratching sound as he rakes the crisp leaves into a pile. It feels so spiritual here. I feel lucky to be here and am enveloped by a feeling of calmness. I want to know more but this is not a tourist enterprise – in fact I am the only outsider here. It’s also an ideal place to go for great views of Hua Hin.

I am rather sure I misunderstood the intentions of the craggy old lady when she invited me to buy food or incense. “I’ve been conned before”, I thought as I declined to buy what I am now sure was intended as an offering to Buddha. She didn’t appear to mind, but who would know.

Clearly this area is in need of funds as it looks past its best. I am delighted it is open to be shared with those few of us who take the time to stop by a while and have some reflection time. Upon leaving I put some money in the box – more than I would have had I paid for an offering and hope that made up, just a little, for my earlier crassness.

Although I didn’t see any monkeys I am so glad I didn’t bail out when there were some obstacles in my path.

Buzzy Hua Hin

2008-03-03T01:52:00.000-08:00

Hello from buzzy Hua Hin which is about a 4/5 hour train trip south–west of Bangkok but still on the Gulf of Thailand. This town, population, about 49,000 is like a big Surfers Paradise without the massive number of high rise condos and hotels and not as “sanitized”.

The beach here is superb with mile after mile of gorgeous white sand. But, unlike the other two seaside spots I’ve visited, Chaweng and Choeng Mon, the beach area is much wider and it’s not as busy. Trade here must be good too, because, aside from numerous tailors shops (say one every 30 metres!) they don’t hustle for business. Now I am tempted to stop and browse in the shops and stalls, or even flick through the tour office brochures without being hounded. It’s refreshing after Samui where the vendors antennae are tuned to perfection – a glance at their wares from 100 metres distance will result an approach.

I like Hua Hin. Because it’s so close to Bangkok, I expected the beaches to be much busier than Samui but although there are masses of tourists here, there is room to spread out on the beach. Beach access is a problem though. The beach frontage has been taken over by various tourist enterprises and hotels so to reach the sand, its necessary to go down one of the streets and there aren’t that many of them.

On my first mornings walk I stopped to take a photo of a huge jelly fish – about the size of one of those cheap wee outdoor café style tables - about 80cm across. I thought I’d stumbled across a rare thing and got chatting to an American couple who confirmed that they would leave a nasty sting if you met one while out for a swim. I realized very quickly that they are plentiful and I began to be VERY careful about where I put my feet as I strolled along in the shallows getting my pretty pink toe nails wet.

On my way back to the hotel, I met up with a German couple I had chatted with on the train coming down from Bangkok. Just after arriving in Hua Hin he took his 5 year old down for a swim to cool off. He was stung by a jelly fish and he confirmed what the Americans had said; it was extremely painful. Luckily for him there was someone on the beach able to administer remedial first aid. He was taken to the local hospital for an injection and a supply of tablets. The rash was extensive; it probably covered about half his forearm and looked very red and sore.

Little did I know that not 24 hours later I’d be making a visit to that same hospital (they take urgent and non-urgent cases). Thankfully my reason for visiting was the latter.

I’ve decided its not much fun being away, and by yourself, when you get sick.

Firstly, and the reason for my visit to the hospital was that I had developed an allergic reaction to something unknown. The itching was driving me crazy and I’d become extremely lethargic, which I had put down, erroneously, to the heat. The body was definitely on a “go slow”. Then I developed a nasty bout of traveler’s diarrhoea. Yikes!! That laid me rather low, and feeling rather sorry for myself, for 72 hours or so.

Back to my hospital visit. After being greeted and the forms filled to identify myself and next of kin etc, I was told to wait on comfy chairs. Soon I’m called by a nurse, weighed (still too heavy – but dropping), blood pressure taken (excellent), and temperature taken (normal). I’m then escorted to a Doctors room for the consultation. He prescribes some medication. I’m told to go back to the waiting area whilst he completes the prescription. I am then escorted to the cashier to pay the bill, and then to the pharmacy where the ointment and tablets are ready for me and an explanation is given to me. All of this is done without an appointment, takes about one hour, costs me about $43 and is done in perfect English. I was very very impressed.

So between these two conditions, I’ve seen very little of Hua Hin which is a shame because there are a couple of places nearby I wanted to visit like Cha-am beach. I’d also wanted to visit a couple of National Parks, particularly Kaeng Krachan which is the largest park in Thailand – you can see elephants in the wild and it’s the home to about 300 bird species but that will all have to wait for another time because I have a date in Cambodia. I have found two absolutely fabulous coffee places here though and that was a treat for me to savor for the first two days.

What I’m missing…..my own bed and couch …..well I have been unwell!

What I’m enjoying…..the thought that weight just must be dropping off since I’ve eaten very little food over the past several days.

What I’m looking forward to…….feeling great again and exploring the temples of Angkor Wat.

Creatures of Habit

2008-02-24T05:33:00.000-08:00

Are We ALL Creatures of Habit?

At my wee piece of paradise on Choeng Mon Beach, I’m observing that many of us are creatures of habit.

Three times now, I’ve elected to have my breakfast at Crystals where I take a table in the building, rather than outside on the loungers. My table overlooks the two rows of sun loungers on the sand shaded by tatty multi-coloured beach umbrellas and right in front of them the waves roll in relentlessly.

Each day the same scene unfolds.

A foursome from some Northern European country (perhaps even Russia), nab the same loungers – one for each of them. The other day someone had used that time old method of reservation; leaving clothes on two of the front row seats. After the foursome arrived, a ten minute discussion ensued. The group leader was INDIGNANT that someone else had the audacity to reserve what she clearly determined where “her” loungers. So, she removed the clothing, then put her hands on her hip while there was another ten minute discussion placed the other person’s belongings on different loungers - in the second row. She was very proud of herself and then ordered her friends (it seemed me) to sit where she directed them.

The four then each take off a top layer of clothing, the women releasing bulbous uncontrollable breasts, go for a swim, change into dry swimsuits (on the beach), hang the wet swimsuits on the umbrella ribs, rub suntan lotion on and get out the sudoku book.

A rather dapper Frenchman has a slightly different routine. His spot is three along from the foursome. He spends several minutes adjusting his sun umbrella and then he places his important daily requirements i.e. cigarettes, cell phone and book on the table beside him. He walks up to the restaurant (where I’m sitting) and grabs their broom to take back with him.

An aside - these brooms are amazing and are used everywhere. They have a thin bamboo handle about a metre in length. Woven, very neatly to the handle are multiple strands of a dried grass. Each strand is approximately 60 cm long but tied up the handle so the ends are left at differing lengths and the grasses splay out in the shape of an open fan. They are lovely and soft to use and very effective.

Our dapper Frenchman, who dresses in a number of different snazzy patterned swimsuits each day, figure hugging of course, fastidiously sweeps his blue wooden lounger with this broom. He then struts around his lounger inspecting the sand and rids the area of every stone. I don’t see many stones but even one invader must be gotten rid of. He then lies in his lounger, adjusts the angle numerous time to get it just right for the sun. Often its still not right, so he gets up, digs out some sand underneath the front legs to lower the lounger and improve the view. Organising his towels – one to lie on and another rolled up for a head support demands even more attention.

Finally, after about half an hour of detailed fussing, he is ready to settle down with his book.

I find all this fascinating and observing others helps to alleviate some of the concerns I have about my own routines! Of course, I don’t think I’m as bad as this but others might disagree!

The funny thing is, if I wander past again 6 or 7 hours later, the same people are in the same spots so I suppose all this attention to detail is important when you spend so long in the one place.

I could write many more observations, like the elderly French couple who are tanned golden brown – all over – from the (plentiful) bits of their bodies on display. Or I could mention the relationships I've seen develop between local girls and visiting men. But, I don’t want to bore you, or, give you the impression I’ve nothing better to do with my time!

Photo taken during "transition" time at around 6p.m. - the sun-bathers have gone and the diners are not yet out for dinner.

Around the Island to Bo Phut

2008-02-22T21:31:00.000-08:00

Around the Island to Bo Phut

Hello from Bo Phut where I’m sitting at one of my favourite spots for observing what’s happening in a place; a café right on the edge of fisherman’s pier. I caught the sawngthaew up here which is the local form of bus – (like a converted ute - see the photo) and it's about a 20 minutes ride from Choeng Mon.

It’s from this pier that the boats take people out to many different islands, (Koh Tao, Koh Phangan, Koh Som etc) in the Gulf of Thailand. I planned to visit some of these islands but as they turn into raging party palaces at full moon, which is about now, I’ve decided to extend my stay at the lovely peaceful (relatively) piece of paradise at Choeng Mon.

I’ve stopped for breakfast at Coffee Junction. They boast superb coffee and so it should be at the price. The price is a 35% premium to any other coffee I’ve had in Thailand! A note to self: do check the size of the cup before ordering. Here you can have a choice of coffee beans – the more common robusta (twice the caffeine of Arabica) or Arabica (about 75% - 80% of the world's production) varieties and I’ve ordered the latter which, it's generally accepted has more flavour. Anyway, the thimble sized cup of coffee arrives and it is excellent.

My contentment is shattered by the piercing bang of fireworks as they cut through the general street noise at regular intervals and sometimes makes me jump as it’s so unexpected. People light them in the narrow street just in front of the small wooden houses and shops. The smoldering remains of the double happies are doused with water, the red outside paper left swirling around the street.

Diagonally opposite me three old men relax in bamboo chairs outside another café. These guys are having a great time commenting on everyone and everything that passes by this busy corner. Sometimes the conversation gets quite animated: about what – I don’t know because of course it’s conducted in Thai.

This area is very quaint and has a number of nice looking places to stay, some with water views but I am happy I decided to stay put. There is an excellent array of dining options here too.

The beach sand here is coarser than Choeng Mon and Chaweng. Like all these beaches there is no tolerance for the effects of global warming if indeed that does raise sea levels. Here at Bo Phut at high tide, there’s only about 2 meters of beach area. But unlike Choeng Mon and Chaweng, there is a small rise before the road, restaurants and hotels have been built which will give this area a reprieve.

I’m missing….wholegrain toast

I’m surprised……at how kind, polite and gentle everyone is towards me.

Taste Sensation….the HUGE locally grown cashew nuts which are about double the size of any I’ve seen in NZ so they clearly don't export the best of the crop! A divine snack.

I’m Loving……everyday vendors pull up right beside my deck on their motor cycles with food carts attached. They announce their arrival with a few short blasts on their horn. They sell all sorts of things – rice dishes, noodles, soups and fruit. Everyday I buy fruit – from the fruit man – a selection from ¼ papaya, ¼ pineapple, big slice of watermelon and about 10 bananas.

Bargain of the moment…..the fruit – for 2 bags of the above about 80c.

I’m reading….Actually I’ve just finished the superb “Mao’s Last Dancer” by Li Cunxin. I heard him speak a few years ago and he was one of the very best speakers I’ve listened to. This autobiography is the story and transformation of an 11 year old child from a very, very poor peasant background. He was plucked out of millions of hopeful youngsters and taken from his loving family to train at the Beijing Dance Academy established by Madame Mao. Opportunity, training, a tough mental focus and hard work triumph and he realises the dream of a lifetime for ballet dancers. A truly remarkable story.

Some of my Favourite Travel Books

2008-02-20T00:35:00.000-08:00

I love armchair travel books. I find how and why other people change their lifestyle and how serendipity, if recognized and accepted, can alter and enrich the travel experience. Here are some of the books I’ve found inspiring, and/or have enjoyed reading.

Tales of a Female Nomad
Rita Golden Gelman

As the American author says of her life – it was a continuous round of “elegant restaurants, interesting people, and events like the Academy Awards and the Grammies. My husband of twenty-four years and I dine with celebrities we see the latest movies before the rest of the world, and we’re invited to all the book parties in Los Angeles”.

But she felt hollow. Life for Rita was, on the outside, exhilarating, perhaps even one others might want to emulate, but she felt like she was living someone else’s life.

After a short break from the marriage, her husband suggested they spend longer apart. During this interval Rita traveled to Mexico relishing the freedom and change of conditions she experienced when living with the locals. When it became clear that the marriage was over, rather than wallowing in self pity, she did a quick stock-take of her finances and her desires and began life as a nomad.

During her travels, she lived (and has written about) life in Mexico the Galapagos Islands, Bali, New Guinea, Israel and Nicaragua, Thailand and my home country of New Zealand. In Bali she lived in a palace but more commonly she lived like the locals.

Throughout her delightful book she demonstrates a “can do attitude”.

Her website http://www.ritagoldengelman.com/ notes that Tales of a Female Nomad has sold over 100,000 copies. Her site also has other useful travel tips.

I love this quote from her book “I’m not running away. I’m running toward….toward adventure, toward discovery, toward diversity.” What a great philosophy.

A must read for anyone contemplating solo travel.

Ted Simon
Jupiters Travels

Jupiter’s Travels is an astonishing and inspiring book and was one of the very first travel narratives I read soon after it was first published in 1979.

Ted chronicles his motorcycle travels around the world – a journey which took around four years. A meticulous recorder of detail he notes that the journey was 60,647 road miles and he undertook a further 17,655 miles by seal, rail and ferry.

A solid read, the book is packed with marvelous anecdotes. The wonderful understated sense of humor of the English shines throughout as he discusses places and people with keen perception. Although he has an impressive grasp of detail and observation, Simon does not allow it to slow the story down. Instead, it carries the reader along on the trip.

Ted began his first journey at age 46 and amazingly at age 70 he repeated the trip and itinerary. His website www.jupitalia.com has details of the second trip, his new book, photographs, details of the equipment he took, including panniers in which he packed all of his needs for the trip and more.

A great read even for those not contemplating travel on two wheels.

Without Reservations
By Alice Steinbach

When Alice took six months leave of absence from her job as a journalist, she wanted to use the time for “comfort “travel. She had fallen into the habit of many of us - that of being defined by other people – behaving in the way others expected of her. Instead, she wanted to live in the moment and satisfy her longing for new experiences.

In January 1993 she left the United States for Paris, a city she knew, having spent some time there as a wife and mother of young children. In Without Reservations she has chapters on her time in London and Florence. Alice has an amazing ability to turn casual encounters into friendships and these serendipitous events make for enlightening vignettes.

By the time Alice wrote her next travel book (Educating Alice) she had resigned her job with plans to travel the world as a casual student taking courses of interest to her – and these courses are eclectic.

In Educating Alice the author, explores more of her interests and it opens with anecdotes from her attendance at a cooking class at the Ritz in Paris. In Prague she appreciates the importance of sensible shoes to walk along the cobbles to the ancient castle, puts on dancing shoes for a session in Kyoto with a geisha and finds secret gardens in the city she adores – Paris. Cuba features too with an extraordinary tale of a dinner and fashion show where the clothes are all in white. A chance encounter with a teacher who extends an invitation to visit her home gives Alice the opportunity to glimpse a life far removed from the usual tourist experiences.

Another chance encounter with a Japanese man, Naohiro, (he was introduced in her first book Without Reservations) ignites a beautiful friendship and Alice’s vignettes of their snatched time together are sprinkled throughout the two books. These glimpses into a smoldering relationship conducted long distance are pure gold.

Her keen eye for detail does not hinder her writing. Like a fine jeweler, Alice crafts her words with care; less is more and anything not advancing the narrative is removed.

Alice’s books are treats to be savored and I want more.

Buying a property in France or Italy is the subject of a number of books. Each author has their own twist on a common theme - visit the country, fall in love with a local man, the location, a property, or any combination....

1. Mary Moody
Author of a Trilogy: Last Tango in Toulouse: Au Revoir (Running Away from Home at Fifty); and Long Hot Summer

Australian broadcaster, author, keen gardener, cook and raconteur, Mary Moody escaped her life (husband, family, job and home) for six months in France, alone. Mary has a knack of making anywhere she rests her head like home complete with friends (locals or numerous visitors from home), lots of laughter and good conversation. Tables groan with interesting food and the way Mary writes about numerous long lunches and dinners she hosted or visited in rural France had me salivating. I often felt as though there was a place set at the table waiting for me - all I had to do was arrive, relax and imbibe.

Mary falls in love with the food, the people and the place and her first six months in the country becomes a tempter. You get the sense she will repeat the experience which she does. On a subsequent trip, after an extensive search, (and false starts) she eventually locates a suitable property to buy in the Lot region (2 hours drive inland from Bordeaux), so begins another tale – that of its restoration.

Mary’s books are a gentle and amusing romp. They are easily digestible. Her honesty in the way she handles this tumultuous change in life and relationships is refreshing.

Her website http://www.marymoody.com.au/ details her many books, tours and more. After reading about the trials and tribulations synonymous with renovations in a country far from home, and with different and unexpected issues, it is a treat to see photographs of her completed home. Her web site also gives details of how to reserve her retreat in France.

2. Marlena de Blasi
A Thousand Days in Venice

Marlena’s Italian story is a gentle tale of unfolding love. Love of the country, the food and lifestyle and love of the man – a Venetian banker named Fernando. A Thousand Days in Venice is one of the classic “across a crowded room, I know he is THE ONE” stories. The story of how the two met would be a great plot for a romance novel, but no, this is real life!

Marlena’s records how she left her life in America, packed up her treasures and transplanted herself into Fernando’s life to share his apartment and country. His home is long overdue for renovation and a woman’s touch. Whereas he loves to live very simply and doesn’t “see” the issues with his existing home, she is used to sumptuous surroundings. This conflict forms the basis for some interesting negotiations between them as Marlena persuades him, successfully, to transform his home.

Before she left America, Marlena was a chef and food writer so her Italian adventure provides a wonderful canvas for her loves which she shares (including several recipes) with us.

A deliciously warm, true story of how romance has the power to surprise and transform.

The Reluctant Mariner
Joanna Hackett

Just how reluctant Joanna is to participate in her husbands dream is made crystal clear in the opening paragraph of the book. Joanna cannot sail and is a confirmed landlubber. This is a classic “feel the fear and do it anyway” story.

Her husband wants to undertake a round the world journey and on a yacht! So after some sailing lessons, all too soon, the big adventure begins - to circumnavigate the globe on a 12 metre yacht. During this journey as Joanna ventured further and further from shore, she adapted to shipboard life, overcoming many physical and psychological challenges, and it appeared that she had become a true “yachtie”. They visited 37 countries, sometimes leaving their boat on an anchorage to venture inland for several days.

Joanne writes with passion, and with the sense of humour so typical of those from the antipodean (Australia) part of the world. A wonderful book to curl up on a comfortable chair with, then admire how someone can overcome so much to participate in the dream of another.

Letters from the Med
Summer Cruising Under the Endless Sun
Andrea and Ian Treleaven

Andrea and Ian trip sounds leisurely and comfortable as they cruised the Mediterranean ports, marinas and bays of the rich and famous on board Cadiz, their 47 foot Beneteau. They are experienced yachties, (especially Ian who has done a lot of blue water sailing).

Letters from the Med was a welcome addition to my coffee table display. It is beautifully written and presented in “bite sized” pieces making it easy to read for anyone with a few minutes to spare.

An interesting addition, particularly for yachties, is a number of side bars of “Ian’s Cruising Notes” with gems for anyone thinking about taking a trip to these waters.

Although the book is effortless to read, it’s the stunning photography that tempts me to pick this lovely book up again and again. The couple’s trip was detailed in Andrea’s weekly newsletter to friends, later expanded to “Treleavens’ Travels” and published on the website http://www.sail-world.com/.

It will be enjoyed; I am sure, by landlubbers and anyone with a love of the water.

The Pageant - Choeng Mon Beach

2008-02-17T21:42:00.000-08:00

Vendors along Choeng Mon Beach and "my" massage hut with my bungalow jutting out just behind it.

It’s a Pageant - Choeng Mon Beach Thailand

I’ve scored this marvelous bungalow right on the beach at Choeng Mon on the island of Koh Samui, not far in distance from Chaweng, but miles apart in appeal. I don’t know how he did it, but Jeffy from Chaweng seemed to read my mind and between his limited English (actually his English was quite good) and my non existent Thai, he managed to get the perfect spot for me.

He did promise me a quiet beach and it’s not. However the beach is very pretty, white sand like powder and the luke warm sea is the gorgeous green colour seen in all the best travel brochures. At night a very romantic scene unfolds. Restaurants set up tables to replace the sun loungers and as fairy lights twinkle in the still warm evening air, people relax over dinner and couples stroll the along beach.

Massage huts line the sea shore along the length of this lovely beach and all day long people wander up and down selling all manner of things; jewelry, clothing, belts, wraps, shorts sunglasses and hats. Then there are ice-cream, corn on the cob gently roasted over naked hot coals, donut and fruit vendors, plus those selling balls and floating devices of various descriptions. The list of vendors goes on and on. I think they must be sanctioned by some higher body because they all wear red vests with numbers on them.

Walking along this beach, especially in the morning, is a social event. By the time I get back to my room I’ve said good morning to about three dozen people.

The massage ladies interest me the most. They seem to have a “hustler” and her job is to get “bums on seats”. The conversation with me goes something like,
“Good morning ma-DAM…..how are yooou this morning? Ma-DAM, you want a mas-SAGE to-day?” all said in a lilting sing-a-long voice.
My reply is polite and stock standard. “No. But thank you VERY much.” They seem to like this and usually smile and sometimes give me that lovely Thai response of a thank you, hands placed just under a slightly bowed head in the prayer position. It’s very humbling. Other times the response is a regretful look as though there won’t be any redemption for me because my skin is in shocking condition and I really should get treatment with urgency.

Yesterday morning one particularly outgoing “hustler” dressed in a red tee shirt came rushing up to me and threw her arms around me for a big hug. Well, I’m an uptight (ever so slightly!) westerner and I was quite taken aback at this display of affection from a stranger. She proceeded to ask me, as they all do, “are you married?” (The other question is “excuse me ma-dam, how old are yooou?”)

But I digress I had a dilemma. How to choose who to favour for my various treatments?
The “problem” was solved easily enough. I’m slightly away from the teeming masses on the larger beach area just around the corner but on my smaller stretch, just outside my bungalow, there are three massage huts all in a row and to get to the beach I walk between two of them. The one closest to me changed the sales pitch to “When you wanna mas-SAGE, you come to me OK?” and I found myself saying OK. After all, it would have been disloyal to ignore my closest neighbors in favour of anyone else along this colourful stretch of beach.

So that’s how, yesterday, I ended up with a two hour pampering session (and that was just for my feet and hands!) administered by two lovely Thai ladies. I lay prostrate in an open sided hut, listening to the waves crashing two metres away while my feet, after uh-um decades of neglect, received the treat of their life.

I left feeling fantastic and with lovely pink varnished finger and toe nails.

Walking the beach this morning though, the affectionate “hustler” in the red tee shirt was there. Like an adultress after a delicious night, I tried to creep past without my indiscretions being uncovered. But she rushed up to me and immediately, her face fell as she saw my feet, the skin all lovely and glowing, like new, along with flash new nail polish on my fingers and toes. In a flash, she knew that I’d been a traitor.

Ah….such is the dilemma of a decadent traveler.

What I’m loving……sitting on my deck, listening to the surf gently rolling in and watching the pageant along the beach unfold before me.

Bargain of the moment……the price I’m paying for this great spot.

Best Coffee…….this is almost a story….here goes…..Honey’s Bar is right on the beach. I’m in heaven because, the coffee is properly espressed and as a consequence it has crema. Other coffee around here is Kona style and horrid muddy stuff, but not this. It is served it in a cute cup – rather like the old Temuka pottery cups but this cup has a soft sage coloured glaze on the inside and a Thai pattern around the cup is repeated on the saucer. The accompanying sugar spoon is tiny, cute and made of wood. It’s a complete experience. Yeah….I know it – I’m sick but that’s addiction for you!

Taste sensation……the cold watermelon juice I had for breakfast – freshly juiced.

What I’m missing…..just chatting to people who know me.

What I’m reading….actually I’ve just finished Elizabeth Gilberts book “Eat, Pray, Love” and I thoroughly enjoyed it. soon, I’ll download an item I wrote before I left NZ about some of my favorite travel books.

Not sure what my next report will be about – maybe something from Bo Phut beach which I’m hoping will be my “home” for a while, but then again, I might extend my stay here - again. Bo Phut is a fishing village short way around the island.